I logged onto Magic Online for the first time in about nine months. I noticed that clicking on the mouse wheel doesn't zoom in on the card: this is during deckbuilding and also during gameplay. Can anyone help? How do I get the cards to zoom?
What creature fights? Temur War Shaman or the creature that just got turned up?
What is the source of this fight ability? Does granting protection from green (Feat of Resistance) prevent the fight? Does granting protection from the color of the turned up creature prevent the fight?
I had a discussion with friends and we tried to make a two mana planeswalker in each color that would be appropriately powered. Either WW or 1W for each color. I also wanted to stay away from boring abilities like gain 1 life, opponent loses 1 life, or deal 1 damage. I also like the abilties to be related to each other.
What do you guys think of these? What are your own suggestions?
White PlaneswalkerWW
+1: Put a 0/1 white creature token with defender onto the battlefield.
-5: Put an X/X white creature token with flying onto the battlefield, where X is the number of creatures with defender you control.
Starting Loyalty: 1
Blue Planeswalker1U
+1: Look at the top card of your library.
-4: Scry 3, then draw three cards.
Starting Loyalty: 1
Black Planeswalker1B
+1: You lose 2 life and put a 1/1 creature token with a toxic counter on it onto the battlefield.
-5: Target opponent loses X life and you gain X life, where X is the number of creatures you control with toxic counters.
Starting Loyalty: 1
Red Planeswalker, that is not TibaltRR
+1: Put a 1/1 creature token with first strike and haste onto the battlefield. At the beginning of the end step, sacrifice it.
-5: You get an emblem with "Creatures you control have first strike and haste."
Starting Loyalty: 1
Green PlaneswalkerGG
+1: Search your library for a Forest card, reveal it, then shuffle your library and put that card on top of it.
-5: Each Forest you control becomes a 2/6 green creature with Trample until end of turn. They're still lands.
Starting Loyalty: 1
Colorless Planeswalker2
0: Put a loyalty counter on target planeswalker.
-5: Put a 5/5 colorless artifact creature token with indestructible onto the battlefield.
Starting Loyalty: 1
Personally, I like that a bye is more beneficial than a win.
In small tournaments, it's not my fault there's an odd number of players. So I shouldn't be penalized for getting the bye if I have no one to play against. It's not like I chose not to play. Byes are generally not awarded to players at the top of the bracket, so as to try to influence the overall winner as little as possible. The difference between 4th place and 5th place out of 8 is really insignificant; it's better that the bye doesn't mess up the difference between 1st place and 2nd place.
In larger tournaments, byes are awarded at the beginning of the tournament based on a player's past achievements. For example, a player with enough Planeswalker Points in the season will get two byes to start the event. It's a reward so it should be the best possible thing.
2-0 with bad tiebreakers isn't the best possible thing. 2-0 with great tiebreakers is.
Suppose I sacrifice a creature so that Butcher of the Horde gains lifelink. When Butcher of the Horde dies, does it immediately lose lifelink? Or does it keep lifelink until end of turn while in the graveyard?
What if I exile a dead Butcher of the Horde to Soulflayer's Delve?
Does Swarm of Bloodflies always get the +1/+1 counter (from Scaldkin dying) before the damage or is this an AP/NAP order thing?
In other words, this is one triggered ability and one activated ability. Does the triggered ability always go on the stack later because it is caused by the cost of the activated ability?
During the Declare Blockers step, after blockers have been declared, the Active Player passes priority.
The defending player turns one of his creatures face up. Since this action doesn't use the stack, will the Active Player receive priority again before damage?
It's a sealed deck, which is why it says "My Sealed Pool". It's why I'm asking questions like "Is this a stronger-than-average pool?"
If this were a draft deck, I certainly would've posted a full draft cap.
I didn't understand why I have seven rares. I was asking why. As it turns out, my Utter End was foil.
Could I have made it more clear that it was sealed? Probably, even though wallycaine mentions it's clearly not 42 cards. But it's no worse than magicmerl assuming it's draft, just so he can go off on my terrible draft picks. Are there any ways to hide/delete magicmerl's unhelpful and condescending response?
Alright, so a bit of background on myself. A few years ago, I used to be a pretty competitive Constructed player but I was never any good in Limited formats. To make matters worse, this is the first time I'm playing Magic in a year. I have no clue what any of these cards do.
But however it seems to make sense that card lots are desperate last-ditch attempts to sell cards that no one wanted to buy. If they could sell these cards individually for more money, why wouldn't they?
So, if Valakut comes in as Mountain #6+, it will trigger. And, if two Valakuts come in at the same time, as mountains #6+, it will trigger two times, because two mountains came in, and two Valakuts are on the field.
Is that right? If so, I think I get it. If not...bugger. >_<
At this point, you control two copies of Valakut, the Molten Pinnacle and also two Mountains just entered the battlefield. Therefore, each Valakut will trigger for each Mountain: 2x2 for a total of four triggers.
Think about it this way: everything that is supposed to come into the battlefield will do so, take a moment to stop and take a breathe, now that everything is in play evaluate which triggers should go on the stack.
I don't shuffle my cards to gain any sort of advantage. I don't do it to try to distract you or to prevent you from noticing what cards I've topdecked. I just do it because I do.
For example, I noticed that I was "clicking" my pen constantly while I was reading your post. And as I'm typing I'm response, I'm chewing on the pen. Is it annoying? Probably.
Am I doing it because I'm trying to annoy you? No.
Will I stop because it annoys you? Probably not.
Is it because I'm trying to make up for a lack of skill in another department? No.
I'm sorry that you think your opponent does it to psyche you out. But the truth of the matter is, it's not about you; don't flatter yourself. Your opponent isn't even thinking about you when he's flicking his cards: he's thinking about the game state. He likely does not even realize he's doing it.
Not every action is directed at you. Next, you'll start claiming that I'm blinking abnormally fast to gain a psychological advantage. Whether or not I shuffle my cards and how fast I blink has nothing to do with my opponent. That's just who I am and what I do.
Clicking a pen, shaking one of your legs while you're seated, drumming your fingers against your desk. All habits that might get under your skin. But none of these are done with the primary intent to annoy you.
Can you be more specific on how you intend to achieve this?
As far as I can tell, this combo does not allow you to look at the order of your entire library, shortcut or no shortcut.
I presume that you mean you want to continuously sacrifice Kitchen Finks to Viscera Seer's ability. Since you are scrying 1, you will repeatedly look at the first card over and over again if you do not intend to move that card to the bottom.
I agree with xburritox here: talking to the tournament organizer and head judge is your best bet. I also tend to agree with you that there's a good chance that the event will start at least five (probably more) minutes late.
As far as your question about registering a sealed pool, the answer is yes and no. Yes, you do register a sealed pool but not yours. The cards you open will not be the cards you use. Instead, you pass your pool to someone else. Your pool will be something that someone else opened and registered. This is done so that you aren't tempted to sneak in good cards into the pool: someone else already wrote your pool down!
A small percentage of people do actually end up getting their own pool returned back to them for deck construction: I've heard it said that the probability that you end up with your own pool is about 5-10%, which is about the same probability that you will end up playing against the person who ultimately gets your pool (if you don't).
This equal percentage is such that it discourages you from sabotaging the pool to hurt other players: you might get your own pool back. (Of course, regardless of any percentage play, Cheating is Cheating and will be punished properly.)
What creature fights? Temur War Shaman or the creature that just got turned up?
What is the source of this fight ability? Does granting protection from green (Feat of Resistance) prevent the fight? Does granting protection from the color of the turned up creature prevent the fight?
What do you guys think of these? What are your own suggestions?
White Planeswalker WW
+1: Put a 0/1 white creature token with defender onto the battlefield.
-5: Put an X/X white creature token with flying onto the battlefield, where X is the number of creatures with defender you control.
Starting Loyalty: 1
Blue Planeswalker 1U
+1: Look at the top card of your library.
-4: Scry 3, then draw three cards.
Starting Loyalty: 1
Black Planeswalker 1B
+1: You lose 2 life and put a 1/1 creature token with a toxic counter on it onto the battlefield.
-5: Target opponent loses X life and you gain X life, where X is the number of creatures you control with toxic counters.
Starting Loyalty: 1
Red Planeswalker, that is not Tibalt RR
+1: Put a 1/1 creature token with first strike and haste onto the battlefield. At the beginning of the end step, sacrifice it.
-5: You get an emblem with "Creatures you control have first strike and haste."
Starting Loyalty: 1
Green Planeswalker GG
+1: Search your library for a Forest card, reveal it, then shuffle your library and put that card on top of it.
-5: Each Forest you control becomes a 2/6 green creature with Trample until end of turn. They're still lands.
Starting Loyalty: 1
Colorless Planeswalker 2
0: Put a loyalty counter on target planeswalker.
-5: Put a 5/5 colorless artifact creature token with indestructible onto the battlefield.
Starting Loyalty: 1
In small tournaments, it's not my fault there's an odd number of players. So I shouldn't be penalized for getting the bye if I have no one to play against. It's not like I chose not to play. Byes are generally not awarded to players at the top of the bracket, so as to try to influence the overall winner as little as possible. The difference between 4th place and 5th place out of 8 is really insignificant; it's better that the bye doesn't mess up the difference between 1st place and 2nd place.
In larger tournaments, byes are awarded at the beginning of the tournament based on a player's past achievements. For example, a player with enough Planeswalker Points in the season will get two byes to start the event. It's a reward so it should be the best possible thing.
2-0 with bad tiebreakers isn't the best possible thing. 2-0 with great tiebreakers is.
TL;DR- Byes should never be detrimental.
What if I exile a dead Butcher of the Horde to Soulflayer's Delve?
Does Swarm of Bloodflies always get the +1/+1 counter (from Scaldkin dying) before the damage or is this an AP/NAP order thing?
In other words, this is one triggered ability and one activated ability. Does the triggered ability always go on the stack later because it is caused by the cost of the activated ability?
The defending player turns one of his creatures face up. Since this action doesn't use the stack, will the Active Player receive priority again before damage?
If this were a draft deck, I certainly would've posted a full draft cap.
I didn't understand why I have seven rares. I was asking why. As it turns out, my Utter End was foil.
Could I have made it more clear that it was sealed? Probably, even though wallycaine mentions it's clearly not 42 cards. But it's no worse than magicmerl assuming it's draft, just so he can go off on my terrible draft picks. Are there any ways to hide/delete magicmerl's unhelpful and condescending response?
Alright, three questions:
- How should I have built my deck?
- Is this a stronger-than-average pool?
- How did I end up with seven rares?
Thanks everyone!1 Ainok Bond-Kin
1 Defiant Strike
1 END HOSTILITIES
1 Erase
1 Feat of Resistance
1 Kill Shot
1 Mardu Hateblade
1 Salt Road Patrol
2 Siegecraft
1 Timely Hordemate
Blue (15)
1 Cancel
1 Crippling Chill
1 Disdainful Stroke
1 Mystic of the Hidden Way
1 Set Adrift
1 Stubborn Denial
1 Taigam's Scheming
2 Weave Fate
2 Wetland Sambar
2 Whirlwind Adept
1 Waterwhirl
1 Treasure Cruise
Black (7)
1 Mardu Skullhunter
1 Molting Snakeskin
1 Sidisi's Pet
2 Kheru Dreadmaw
2 Sultai Scavenger
1 Act of Treason
1 Arc Lightning
1 Arrow Storm
1 Barrage of Boulders
2 Bloodfire Expert
1 CRATER'S CLAWS
1 JEERING INSTIGATOR
1 Hordeling Outburst
1 Mardu Blazebringer
2 Shatter
1 Tormenting Voice
1 Trumpet Blast
1 Valley Dasher
Green (11)
2 Dragonscale Boon
1 Hooting Mandrills
1 Pine Walker
2 Sagu Archer
1 Savage Punch
1 Seek the Horizon
1 Windstorm
2 Woolly Loxodon
Multicolor (14)
1 Abzan Guide
1 ANAFENZA, THE FOREMOST
2 Efreet Weaponmaster
1 Icefeather Aven
1 Jeskai Charm
2 Master the Way
1 Ponyback Brigade
1 Ride Down
1 SAGU MAULER
1 Snowhorn Rider
1 UTTER END
1 Winterflame
1 Bloodfell Caves
1 FLOODED STRAND
2 Jungle Hollow
1 Lens of Clarity
1 Mardu Banner
1 Opulent Palace
2 Rugged Highlands
1 Tranquil Cove
1 Witness of the Ages
Lots of removal in red, so I threw in Arrow Storm, Arc Lightning, and Ride Down. Jeering Instigator is pretty sweet too.
Time to figure out what my third color would be. I really wanted it to be black so I could play Utter End, but ultimately decided that blue was stronger. Mystic of the Hidden Way, Crippling Chill, Set Adrift, Winterflame, Jeskai Charm, both Master the Way and one copy of Weave Fate went in my deck.
Now that I look at it, I probably should've stayed out of white and gone Temur instead. Lots of goodies in green.
But however it seems to make sense that card lots are desperate last-ditch attempts to sell cards that no one wanted to buy. If they could sell these cards individually for more money, why wouldn't they?
At this point, you control two copies of Valakut, the Molten Pinnacle and also two Mountains just entered the battlefield. Therefore, each Valakut will trigger for each Mountain: 2x2 for a total of four triggers.
Think about it this way: everything that is supposed to come into the battlefield will do so, take a moment to stop and take a breathe, now that everything is in play evaluate which triggers should go on the stack.
You can not spells while declaring blockers, so the play you describe doesn't work.
For example, I noticed that I was "clicking" my pen constantly while I was reading your post. And as I'm typing I'm response, I'm chewing on the pen. Is it annoying? Probably.
Am I doing it because I'm trying to annoy you? No.
Will I stop because it annoys you? Probably not.
Is it because I'm trying to make up for a lack of skill in another department? No.
I'm sorry that you think your opponent does it to psyche you out. But the truth of the matter is, it's not about you; don't flatter yourself. Your opponent isn't even thinking about you when he's flicking his cards: he's thinking about the game state. He likely does not even realize he's doing it.
Not every action is directed at you. Next, you'll start claiming that I'm blinking abnormally fast to gain a psychological advantage. Whether or not I shuffle my cards and how fast I blink has nothing to do with my opponent. That's just who I am and what I do.
Clicking a pen, shaking one of your legs while you're seated, drumming your fingers against your desk. All habits that might get under your skin. But none of these are done with the primary intent to annoy you.
As far as I can tell, this combo does not allow you to look at the order of your entire library, shortcut or no shortcut.
I presume that you mean you want to continuously sacrifice Kitchen Finks to Viscera Seer's ability. Since you are scrying 1, you will repeatedly look at the first card over and over again if you do not intend to move that card to the bottom.
As far as your question about registering a sealed pool, the answer is yes and no. Yes, you do register a sealed pool but not yours. The cards you open will not be the cards you use. Instead, you pass your pool to someone else. Your pool will be something that someone else opened and registered. This is done so that you aren't tempted to sneak in good cards into the pool: someone else already wrote your pool down!
A small percentage of people do actually end up getting their own pool returned back to them for deck construction: I've heard it said that the probability that you end up with your own pool is about 5-10%, which is about the same probability that you will end up playing against the person who ultimately gets your pool (if you don't).
This equal percentage is such that it discourages you from sabotaging the pool to hurt other players: you might get your own pool back. (Of course, regardless of any percentage play, Cheating is Cheating and will be punished properly.)