Amadi's right that Winamp is the closest to a full-featured player without all the bloat of itunes - but its still a bit bloated for my tastes. I have sworn by foobar for the last 5+ years - and it has yet to fail me. An absolutely tiny footprint and it can handle almost all basic functionality you could want out of mp3 player - but it is windows only.
If you're looking for a mac solution...I have no idea...I just use itunes on my mac
Your best bet for virtualization on a mac is Parallels, vmware, or virtualbox - all of which require a valid windows serial and install disc (which isn't that hard to hunt down - and you won't find any other way to virtualize without em - short of linux/wine)
Parallels isn't free and virtualbox I always had crashing issues with. vmware fusion isn't free either - but you can grab the demo for 30 days and keep reinstalling/applying for new demo licenses whenever you need em (reinstalling doesn't destroy your virtual os and is pretty much one-click).
The nice thing about both vmware and parallels is that they have a fully integrated unity mode - I'm not sure if virtualbox offers that functionality. However, if you have less than 4 gigs of ram I can guarentee that any virtualOS is going to run sluggish and with the occassional hang. I'm using vmware fusion on a MacBook w/ 4gigs of Ram and the damn thing STILL crashes and slows down to the point of relaunching at least once or twice during a workday...
Either way, your kinda in a rough spot if you don't want to spend any cash (as, it seems, is the case with all good mac apps) - and if thats the case, vmware is probably your best bet...
I've done a lot of thinking about card frame design in general - 90% of my real world job deals with interface design and efficiently graphically communicating data. If you don't mind, here is a few comments that I might have if this were a "real-world" design.
"So we decided to change the frames..." …Why?
For the purposes of this endeavor, the hard part of the change in design is already accomplished – convincing the higher-ups that there is something wrong with the current design to begin with. However, the question is still very relevant – what needs to be improved on the current template? Let’s break it down.
Is the current template conveying all the information efficiently?
For any card in magic there are a variety of element that’s should be easily distinguished from just glancing at the card. The “gameplay” element that fall into this include: Color, Casting Cost, Card Type, Power, Toughness, Subtypes, Name, and Gametext. From a “collectors” standpoint, there must also be Rarity, Card Number, Artist, Copyright, and an Illustration. For each of these pieces of information it needs to be analyzed weather each piece is currently being given its proper design space. Here’s my attempt at breaking it down:
Color – currently shown by: Frame
I agree with this choice. The color of the card should be represented by the frame. Although I would like to see a greater distinction between frames (not in different layout of elements, just a different style – be it more realistic or just more artistically complex). I would really like to see the frames become more integrated with the artwork – though I wholeheartedly disagree with the “full art” mentality. Using full-art or dropping the opacity on the “core” elements just to see the art behind them is counterintuitive to the basic idea that each design element should take up as much visual balance as the value the information from it contains.
Casting Cost – currently shown by: Top right icon-set
Wizards shot themselves in the foot from the get-go, in that the current restrictions on the placement of mana symbols limits (a) their size – (b) the number of options available and (c) is very difficult to create combinations (see the hybrid symbols). Their placement, however, really has only two options – top left or top right, as that is the most convenient way to view the cost in a fan of cards. Wizard’s choice of balancing the name with the mana cost is something that could be worth revisiting.
Card Type (and subtype) – currently shown by: text in the type line
Given the wide variety of subtypes in magic, it’s almost a given that these have to be conveyed with text. However, the card type *could* potentially be converted into a symbol or (I would prefer) to have both a symbol with some kind of overlaid text. This frees up more textbox room to refer to “All (C) you control” instead of “All creatures you control” (for example)
Power/Toughness – currently shown by: box in the bottom left corner.
While I believe that wizard’s placement is correct (the most important information in the easiest to read location) – I really think that having icons associated with these numbers would greatly help newer players, and if incorporated into the templates well, can be far more interesting than they currently are.
Name – currently shown by: top left text
Not too much of an issue here – name should stay in the easiest to read position within a fan – however there is no rules that say it needs to explicitly be in a box. I’d also like to see stronger typography identification with the brand.
Gametext – currently: in a box, mid center
Do what you want with gametext – just remember that it is (a) the CENTRAL focus once it hits the board (b) needs to allow symbols within its containment area without looking stupid (like most of the textless or full-art frames look once u try to put a few tap and mana symbols in them. The icons start to look like text, or they look like random icons sitting in the middle of text). and the gametext (c) MUST BE EASY TO READ. This is my #1 reason why full-art is absolutely horrible. Take a look at the WWE game’s preshow cards. The text-on-the-image looks terrible when it’s more than a few lines, and is incredibly difficult to read. Even better, take a look at Naruto cards (http://www.xerocreative.com/naruto/images/ninjya.gif ) - I mean I don’t even know where to begin looking at this card. This isn’t as extreme as I’ve seen here on the forums. But here is a tip (err, or rant). I shouldn’t have to pick out words formed by letters that are stroked together with an outer glow, a drop shadow and a freaking outer blur. NO. Put down the Photoshop palette and step away from the keyboard. Return when you have a sense of design that doesn’t involve checking every option in the blending-mode palette or being a filter-*****.
Rarity, Card Number, Artist, Copyright – currently: a bunch of places
These are all non-critical. You should have a sense of their placement (particularly Rarity) within your design, but honestly – I don’t expect to see much of a change – toss it in the bottom, where all the other irrelevant non-gameplay info goes. Hmm…think about that in concerns to power and toughness…
Just a few thoughts to hopefully spur your discussion...
Quite a few things I'm not too happy with - may get a chance to revise them before the end of the contest, if not - ohh well.
I figure the *only* reason wotc would redesign the symbols would really be to include the # of each type of mana in the cost...so here we go... Thus instead of (2)(R)(R) - 3 symbols it would simply be (2)(2R) - If they switched to a vertical layout of mana symbols, this would make the most sense.
I suppose i can slap an "ashnods ale" logo on there somewhere - but most dwi posters put out by beer companies specifically dont mention their brand...if it needs to be edited to fit the theme, let me know!..
Edit! Derf - easily related! Here I went with my favorite pint-shaped card
I may get a chance to make a few revisions to this, but the general gist of it... And for the record, drink & draft is one of the best formats currently available!
I didn't really get a chance to finish this up - looks like I won't have time to finish it either, so heres where I left it...obv. the bag is still vectored and the actual placement of the elements looks terrible - but I do have high-res copies of gummy moxen if anyone wants to mess with em.
I live in NYC so of course I'll be there - and a note for anyone who plans on stopping by Neutral Ground - they just moved, check out their website for the new store location: http://neutralground.com/
I have to second the comedy idea. Trying to do an action, horror, etc can just end up looking very shoddy because it is blatently obvious that you couldn't afford the special effects or locations or props. However, don't go too lofty with your comedy either. Expecting something to look like clerks is just naive. Clerks, though very low budget, was still shot for well over 25 grand - granted there are a lot of things that you wont have to take into account. Heres a few tips:
Dont try to make a feature. A feature length story is simply not time-efficient to try to shoot on a virtually non-existant budget. Aim for about 10-12 pages. A lot of good stories can be told in 10 minutes.
Shoot digital - that ones probably pretty obvious. Unless you have the lighting and sound equipment, dont even consider shooting sync-film. 16mm (while comparatively cheap) will still cost you quite a bit. A 18 minute short that I edited a few months back was shot on 16 (with a rented arri and a naugra sound recorder and borrowed lights-on equipment) and was synced in post (ie the lab didn't sync it) and the total production cost was still close to two grand.
Don't shoot on a crappy camera if you can help it. If you're running around with a handycam or some other consumer-grade piece of junk the film will look terrible. Try to rent/borrow/whatever something like the GL1 or GL2, or possibly an XL1/2 camera - all 3+ ccd chip cameras (the GL1 might be 2.5, though I can't recall off the top of my head).
Edit that script down! Once you have a working script, take it through rewrites until it is solid. Ask yourself this question within every scene: does this move the story along? It may be a "neat" concept to do a spoof of Oceans 11, but seriously - the reason that movie works is because of the acting and the layered complexity of the script, where every scene moves the story along and/or reveals something new. Even if it means cutting one of your favorite scenes, let it go if it isn't helping move the story. And DO IT DURING PRE-PRODUCTION. There is no use in filming things that will be cut later in post, it just creates more stress and unneeded wasted time during the shoot.
Make sure that everyone has a role and that they are responsible for their position. On small shoots its true that everyone will help out when needed, but try to get the major duties figured out and assigned. You will (at minimum) need to have a Director, Producer, Camera Operator, and a Boom Operator (assuming you have access to a boom - and please try. On camera sound is the worst way to record). If you have access to lights and know simple lighting (try googling 3-point lighting for a very basic idea of how to light for film) you will also need a Gaffer.
A few small tips:
--Don't shoot handheld when you dont need to. If you can put the camera on the tripod, do it.
--Use a wheelchair or dolly for a smooth look. A wheelchair is very good for this, or even in a pinch a computer desk chair can work on hard surfaces (like wood floors, linoleum, etc).
--Don't use stupid transitions in post (star wipes, fall-ins, basically anything that doubles as a powerpoint transition) - 12 year olds with windows movie maker use these. They belong only in two places: 1978 and music videos.
--Get the best actors you can find. You're friend may do this "amazing" russian accent, but he may not be a good actor. Try getting folks from the drama club or local community theatre. Getting older actors into your film (older meaning 30+) will give the film a professional look. If the script calls for an older mother, try to find a woman who actually looks the part instead of someones 22 year old sister.
And though I may have been long-winded, remember to have fun, enjoy what you're shooting, and know that rules can be broken - you just need a good reason to break them.
I remember back in the day there was a psd of SWCCG templates, though I can't seem to find it anymore. I'm gana go through my old files and see if I can find it....
Having seen this combo played by a few people at my local FNM, and playing it myself, here is something to watch for. The combo player, with the guildmage in play and 5 mana available plays the spike, splicing ritual, then asks if the opponent is going to kill the guildmage. If the player declines to kill the guildmage, they play the ritual. If they try to kill the guildmage, they play the ritual in response and go off.
The problem here is once they asked if the opponent was killing the guildmage, they implied passing priority. If the opponent passes it back (by saying no), the spike with the spliced ritual begins to resolve. Hence no opportunity to copy the spell.
Any player who is using the deck knows full well how the stack works, and if you watch them pull this trick, call them on it and make them resolve the spike.
Just got the necklace yesterday. It looks pretty decent - and though its not cheaply made, I cant help but get that "coin machine" vibe off it. Maybe its just seeing the mana symbols on a necklace...but I'll post pictures later tonight.
If you're looking for a mac solution...I have no idea...I just use itunes on my mac
Parallels isn't free and virtualbox I always had crashing issues with. vmware fusion isn't free either - but you can grab the demo for 30 days and keep reinstalling/applying for new demo licenses whenever you need em (reinstalling doesn't destroy your virtual os and is pretty much one-click).
The nice thing about both vmware and parallels is that they have a fully integrated unity mode - I'm not sure if virtualbox offers that functionality. However, if you have less than 4 gigs of ram I can guarentee that any virtualOS is going to run sluggish and with the occassional hang. I'm using vmware fusion on a MacBook w/ 4gigs of Ram and the damn thing STILL crashes and slows down to the point of relaunching at least once or twice during a workday...
Either way, your kinda in a rough spot if you don't want to spend any cash (as, it seems, is the case with all good mac apps) - and if thats the case, vmware is probably your best bet...
"So we decided to change the frames..." …Why?
For the purposes of this endeavor, the hard part of the change in design is already accomplished – convincing the higher-ups that there is something wrong with the current design to begin with. However, the question is still very relevant – what needs to be improved on the current template? Let’s break it down.
Is the current template conveying all the information efficiently?
For any card in magic there are a variety of element that’s should be easily distinguished from just glancing at the card. The “gameplay” element that fall into this include: Color, Casting Cost, Card Type, Power, Toughness, Subtypes, Name, and Gametext. From a “collectors” standpoint, there must also be Rarity, Card Number, Artist, Copyright, and an Illustration. For each of these pieces of information it needs to be analyzed weather each piece is currently being given its proper design space. Here’s my attempt at breaking it down:
Color – currently shown by: Frame
I agree with this choice. The color of the card should be represented by the frame. Although I would like to see a greater distinction between frames (not in different layout of elements, just a different style – be it more realistic or just more artistically complex). I would really like to see the frames become more integrated with the artwork – though I wholeheartedly disagree with the “full art” mentality. Using full-art or dropping the opacity on the “core” elements just to see the art behind them is counterintuitive to the basic idea that each design element should take up as much visual balance as the value the information from it contains.
Casting Cost – currently shown by: Top right icon-set
Wizards shot themselves in the foot from the get-go, in that the current restrictions on the placement of mana symbols limits (a) their size – (b) the number of options available and (c) is very difficult to create combinations (see the hybrid symbols). Their placement, however, really has only two options – top left or top right, as that is the most convenient way to view the cost in a fan of cards. Wizard’s choice of balancing the name with the mana cost is something that could be worth revisiting.
Card Type (and subtype) – currently shown by: text in the type line
Given the wide variety of subtypes in magic, it’s almost a given that these have to be conveyed with text. However, the card type *could* potentially be converted into a symbol or (I would prefer) to have both a symbol with some kind of overlaid text. This frees up more textbox room to refer to “All (C) you control” instead of “All creatures you control” (for example)
Power/Toughness – currently shown by: box in the bottom left corner.
While I believe that wizard’s placement is correct (the most important information in the easiest to read location) – I really think that having icons associated with these numbers would greatly help newer players, and if incorporated into the templates well, can be far more interesting than they currently are.
Name – currently shown by: top left text
Not too much of an issue here – name should stay in the easiest to read position within a fan – however there is no rules that say it needs to explicitly be in a box. I’d also like to see stronger typography identification with the brand.
Gametext – currently: in a box, mid center
Do what you want with gametext – just remember that it is (a) the CENTRAL focus once it hits the board (b) needs to allow symbols within its containment area without looking stupid (like most of the textless or full-art frames look once u try to put a few tap and mana symbols in them. The icons start to look like text, or they look like random icons sitting in the middle of text). and the gametext (c) MUST BE EASY TO READ. This is my #1 reason why full-art is absolutely horrible. Take a look at the WWE game’s preshow cards. The text-on-the-image looks terrible when it’s more than a few lines, and is incredibly difficult to read. Even better, take a look at Naruto cards (http://www.xerocreative.com/naruto/images/ninjya.gif ) - I mean I don’t even know where to begin looking at this card. This isn’t as extreme as I’ve seen here on the forums. But here is a tip (err, or rant). I shouldn’t have to pick out words formed by letters that are stroked together with an outer glow, a drop shadow and a freaking outer blur. NO. Put down the Photoshop palette and step away from the keyboard. Return when you have a sense of design that doesn’t involve checking every option in the blending-mode palette or being a filter-*****.
Rarity, Card Number, Artist, Copyright – currently: a bunch of places
These are all non-critical. You should have a sense of their placement (particularly Rarity) within your design, but honestly – I don’t expect to see much of a change – toss it in the bottom, where all the other irrelevant non-gameplay info goes. Hmm…think about that in concerns to power and toughness…
Just a few thoughts to hopefully spur your discussion...
I figure the *only* reason wotc would redesign the symbols would really be to include the # of each type of mana in the cost...so here we go... Thus instead of (2)(R)(R) - 3 symbols it would simply be (2)(2R) - If they switched to a vertical layout of mana symbols, this would make the most sense.
I suppose i can slap an "ashnods ale" logo on there somewhere - but most dwi posters put out by beer companies specifically dont mention their brand...if it needs to be edited to fit the theme, let me know!..
Edit! Derf - easily related! Here I went with my favorite pint-shaped card
http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=magic/expansion/visions
Scroll down and click on each deck to get the list
Dont try to make a feature. A feature length story is simply not time-efficient to try to shoot on a virtually non-existant budget. Aim for about 10-12 pages. A lot of good stories can be told in 10 minutes.
Shoot digital - that ones probably pretty obvious. Unless you have the lighting and sound equipment, dont even consider shooting sync-film. 16mm (while comparatively cheap) will still cost you quite a bit. A 18 minute short that I edited a few months back was shot on 16 (with a rented arri and a naugra sound recorder and borrowed lights-on equipment) and was synced in post (ie the lab didn't sync it) and the total production cost was still close to two grand.
Don't shoot on a crappy camera if you can help it. If you're running around with a handycam or some other consumer-grade piece of junk the film will look terrible. Try to rent/borrow/whatever something like the GL1 or GL2, or possibly an XL1/2 camera - all 3+ ccd chip cameras (the GL1 might be 2.5, though I can't recall off the top of my head).
Edit that script down! Once you have a working script, take it through rewrites until it is solid. Ask yourself this question within every scene: does this move the story along? It may be a "neat" concept to do a spoof of Oceans 11, but seriously - the reason that movie works is because of the acting and the layered complexity of the script, where every scene moves the story along and/or reveals something new. Even if it means cutting one of your favorite scenes, let it go if it isn't helping move the story. And DO IT DURING PRE-PRODUCTION. There is no use in filming things that will be cut later in post, it just creates more stress and unneeded wasted time during the shoot.
Make sure that everyone has a role and that they are responsible for their position. On small shoots its true that everyone will help out when needed, but try to get the major duties figured out and assigned. You will (at minimum) need to have a Director, Producer, Camera Operator, and a Boom Operator (assuming you have access to a boom - and please try. On camera sound is the worst way to record). If you have access to lights and know simple lighting (try googling 3-point lighting for a very basic idea of how to light for film) you will also need a Gaffer.
A few small tips:
--Don't shoot handheld when you dont need to. If you can put the camera on the tripod, do it.
--Use a wheelchair or dolly for a smooth look. A wheelchair is very good for this, or even in a pinch a computer desk chair can work on hard surfaces (like wood floors, linoleum, etc).
--Don't use stupid transitions in post (star wipes, fall-ins, basically anything that doubles as a powerpoint transition) - 12 year olds with windows movie maker use these. They belong only in two places: 1978 and music videos.
--Get the best actors you can find. You're friend may do this "amazing" russian accent, but he may not be a good actor. Try getting folks from the drama club or local community theatre. Getting older actors into your film (older meaning 30+) will give the film a professional look. If the script calls for an older mother, try to find a woman who actually looks the part instead of someones 22 year old sister.
And though I may have been long-winded, remember to have fun, enjoy what you're shooting, and know that rules can be broken - you just need a good reason to break them.
The problem here is once they asked if the opponent was killing the guildmage, they implied passing priority. If the opponent passes it back (by saying no), the spike with the spliced ritual begins to resolve. Hence no opportunity to copy the spell.
Any player who is using the deck knows full well how the stack works, and if you watch them pull this trick, call them on it and make them resolve the spike.
Bla Bla
©2005 Wizards of the Coast Inc. All Rights
Reserved. MAGIC: THE GATHERING, its logo, and
the :symw::symu::symb::symr::symg: symbols are trademarks of Wizards
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