Unless I just can't find it, no one has yet created a template for the new Vehicle cards from Kaladesh. I made a "plugin" for Kentu's BFZ template that looks about 100% accurate to my eye. To use it, you'll need that template. Just follow the directions in the layer names of the .PSD below, then adjust the positioning of the P/T box. I couldn't get it to line up correctly when being pasted into another document.
The deck vault was a bust. In trying to avoid the preparation needed for actual box joints, I cheated by cutting all those strips, and just offsetting them to mimic the appearance. As a result, my crappy table saw introduced tiny variations on every cut, making the fit gappy and misaligned. This is to say nothing about all the mistakes I made.
So, I hunkered down and built a modest little box joint jig...
The two blades I'm using as a dado stack have ever so slightly different diameters, so the joints aren't perfectly flush. Maybe after this project I'll build a jig for use with a single blade.
Test fitting everything. I got it more-or-less perfect this time. You can tell the top and bottom panels are a bit too wide, as they cause the joints to not fully connect. I'll be fixing that this evening. There's also a little gap between the front panel and the sliding top. I think I can pretty easily fill it with a small piece of wood. Maybe it'll be an accent color, and I'll call it a feature
I intend to build a sled for it. Even just having a functional fence would be wonderful... but the thing cost under $35 with a coupon. Not complaining.
I'll post an update once dinner has happened. (Got a link to your art?)
UPDATE:
Deckbox in a deckbox.
This is the ill-advised ingenuity I resorted to in order to get a dado stack effect. What you're looking at is an already-underpowered table saw loaded up with two aftermarket saw blades. With one of the endcaps positioned in-between the blades, their combined kerf is almost exactly the width of each finger of my joints. As hodgepodge as it looks, it works like a charm. I'll absolutely be using this method to cut the joints from the get go from now on. NOT having this ability is the only reason I resorted to the faked box joints in the first place.
The dinky little fence/sled that came with the saw is ALMOST useless. you have to turn it upside down in the track, and hold it tight against the "table" in order to get it square, and even then it requires a lot of torque to prevent wobbling along the threads. And the table height is only nominally adjustable. There aren't any measurements, and the action of raising and lowering it is no more precise than just free lifting it. Getting it to the right height takes finesse and sanity to spare.
Well at least some of the joints fit passably well...
I bought a random orbital sander. Under $20 at Wal-Mart. This is 60-grit sandpaper that I used on both sides of all 8 wall pieces (yes, 8. Hold that thought)
This is the bottom half of the box being test-fitted with the base of the box. I intended to have a band of wood in a 3rd color going around the box at the midpoint, so the top and bottom halves were assembled and glued-up separately. Somehow, I grossly overestimated the total height I'd need to clear the cards once it was finished, and had to remove 7/8" of material from the bottom section. The center band will now go just above the base of the box, along the bottom.
The sliding lid of the deck vault is the first element so far that has worked on more-or-less the first attempt. Actually kind of proud of this part. It has a very satisfying fit.
I stacked up all the pieces just to get a look at the rough dimensions of the final product. (single-sleeved prerelease deck for scale)
--------------------------
Now, here's where I admit that I made some big-ish mistakes today. Correcting the misalignment of the wall pieces actually worked fairly well, but I inadvertently made some unwanted resizing of the finger width in some of the joints. The result is unsightly gaps in a few places. I'll probably "fix" them with wood filler before staining, and just be satisfied with a less-then-aesthetically-perfect result.
But that's not the big mistake. I carefully marked the top edges of each bottom wall, so I wouldn't get them confused while running them through my makeshift dado stack. Then I promptly got them confused and ended up over-adjusting one of the walls. This resulted in a lopsided fit and too much shrinkage. If I had adjusted the other pieces to even out the fit, the box would not have been big enough to accommodate cards... which sort of defeats the purpose. I'm not sure how I'll compensate for this. Either more wood filler, or I'll try to insert wood shims of the appropriate size to make up the difference. Either way, I'll have to sand the outside of the box down quite a bit to make up for the bad fit. I'm crossing my fingers that the thinner walls will still be sturdy enough.
I'm honestly kind of burnt out on this project now. I'm anxious to use what I've learned to start something new that I can do the right way from step one. Bit this one will probably still get finished as a labor of love. It wouldn't be a good sign if I abandon my first project.
Every now and then, some random interest takes hold of me and drags me around by the pinky toe until suddenly letting go and disappearing forever. They've run the gamut from language-learning, to music composition, to game system development. This time, it's woodworking. (Super convenient, since I live in a small apartment, and can't afford expensive power tools anyway, yay!)
Behold my slow, clumsy progress at crafting a deck vault for a double-sleeved commander deck.
Tools:
"Mighty Mite" mini table saw from Harbor Freight
A few cheap clamps
Sand paper in various grits from 80-400
A square/level
Digital caliper
Coping saw
3" clamp-on vise
Protective eyewear
Earplugs because I'm a sensitive pansy
Various wood stains and a polyurethane finish
A few other things I haven't actually used
I have to set up shop at work, meaning I can only really do anything on the weekends. I work in the tech department for a school district, and our offices are located in the garage where the old auto shop class used to be.
I was surprised how much material ends up in the form of sawdust. The cut pieces on the left came from a board the same size as the one on the right. Geez.
All 4 walls of the box in their larval form.
After arranging and gluing the pieces, the final design of the box begins to reveal itself. (Note: I made the mistake of aligning the outside ends instead of the inside ends on the first batch, making the joint impossible to fit together cleanly. Tomorrow I'll have to finagle some way to dig out enough material to even them out without causing too much shrinkage. Will likely have to rig up some contraption on my very non-adjustable table saw to trick it into being a dado cutter.)
Will update tomorrow with pics of the lid and base. I'll either figure out a good way to cut rabbets or lose a finger (or both!)
Not a big fan of the comic itself ever since I stopped being a teenager. I stopped keeping up with it over 10 years ago, but Percy the Cat was always my favorite character.
I'm planning my first cube and trying to make it a ground-up affair. I took a 14-year hiatus from the game in 2004, so my internal encyclopedia is... incomplete to say the least. This guide is exactly what I was looking for: a comprehensive but concise resource that avoids just providing a simple pre-made cube list. Thankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthanky...
Love me some mill, but it'll be a challenge to make it competitive in Legacy. I'd recommend moving all of your aggro strategies to the SB, and adding in more & better mill spells along with some utility. surgical extraction, Visions of Beyond, Archive Trap, and Glimpse the unthinkable have already been mentioned.
I'll also suggest Ghost Quarter to encourage library searching, triggering the trap (especially Game 2, when your opponent is wise to your mill strategy, only plays their 3 basics, and then effectively gets Strip Mined). I love having a playset of Twincast, which can function as 2-mana Archive Traps or just 2-mana Ancestral Recall using Ancestral Visions.
Another utility land to consider is Shelldock Isle. Add in some scry or deck manipulation, and the randomness can be somewhat mitigated. Besta luck!
Yikes! Not sure how that made it through my quality control department, haha. I'll fix it directly.
I didn't edit the entire piece of art, just what was necessary to fit on the card. It involved overlapping several elements of the painting, so the final edit is only about as big as the selection on the card. But I'll post it anyway. Gimme a minute.
Not sure if I'll bother with the other two. They're not very popular, and the art on shiv just doesn't speak to me. I'll be updating Serra's Sanctum to include the gradient on the nameplate.
Hi. Forum noob here taking a stab at this problem.
The way I see it, hexproof and shroud are there to prevent permanents from being interacted with by spells and abilities whose "targets" are chosen by their caster. A single spell shouldn't be able to both a) nullify hexproof AND b) negatively affect its target. There are already ways to work around hexproof, like sacrifice effects, "all/each" effects, and triggered abilities that don't need to target. As others have mentioned, there's even precedence for an effect removing hexproof entirely, but allowing the same effect to also harm the ex-hexproof creature doesn't seem like a good mechanic to me.
Another workaround for "targeting" hexproof creatures could be to make it a liability instead of removing it...
Persecutor of the Righteous --- 1BB
Creature - Human Cleric --- 1/3
When Persecutor of the Righteous enters the battlefield, creatures your opponents control get -1/-1 until end of turn. 3BB, t: Creatures your opponents control get -1/-1 until end of turn. Then, for each opponent, if he or she controls a creature with hexproof, put a -1/-1 counter on each creature he or she controls.
So, it's still a utility creature based on -1/-1 counters, still somewhat hoses hexproof creatures, and doesn't introduce any un-fun mechanics. Whatcha think?
Hi, I'm Dan. I'm new here. I've been tinkering with Photoshop for years, but am hardly an artist. These are my first attempts at digital alters, and critical feedback is appreciated.
Bruna, Light of Alabaster (Super Art)
Finally ready to start assembling my first EDH deck, and she will likely be my general of choice.
Serra's Sanctum (2 takes on altered Unhinged styles)
A couple different versions, including one using the art for the Sanctum of Serra planar card.
Thought I'd post a pic of the finished box. It's far from perfect, but not bad for a first completed project.
If you're into jigs, here's a single-blade box joint jig I designed. Still haven't built it, so no idea if it works as intended
.PSD file:
Vehicle Addon - Kentu BFZ
Low-res preview:
The deck vault was a bust. In trying to avoid the preparation needed for actual box joints, I cheated by cutting all those strips, and just offsetting them to mimic the appearance. As a result, my crappy table saw introduced tiny variations on every cut, making the fit gappy and misaligned. This is to say nothing about all the mistakes I made.
So, I hunkered down and built a modest little box joint jig...
The two blades I'm using as a dado stack have ever so slightly different diameters, so the joints aren't perfectly flush. Maybe after this project I'll build a jig for use with a single blade.
Test fitting everything. I got it more-or-less perfect this time. You can tell the top and bottom panels are a bit too wide, as they cause the joints to not fully connect. I'll be fixing that this evening. There's also a little gap between the front panel and the sliding top. I think I can pretty easily fill it with a small piece of wood. Maybe it'll be an accent color, and I'll call it a feature
I'll post an update once dinner has happened. (Got a link to your art?)UPDATE:
Deckbox in a deckbox.
This is the ill-advised ingenuity I resorted to in order to get a dado stack effect. What you're looking at is an already-underpowered table saw loaded up with two aftermarket saw blades. With one of the endcaps positioned in-between the blades, their combined kerf is almost exactly the width of each finger of my joints. As hodgepodge as it looks, it works like a charm. I'll absolutely be using this method to cut the joints from the get go from now on. NOT having this ability is the only reason I resorted to the faked box joints in the first place.
The dinky little fence/sled that came with the saw is ALMOST useless. you have to turn it upside down in the track, and hold it tight against the "table" in order to get it square, and even then it requires a lot of torque to prevent wobbling along the threads. And the table height is only nominally adjustable. There aren't any measurements, and the action of raising and lowering it is no more precise than just free lifting it. Getting it to the right height takes finesse and sanity to spare.
Well at least some of the joints fit passably well...
I bought a random orbital sander. Under $20 at Wal-Mart. This is 60-grit sandpaper that I used on both sides of all 8 wall pieces (yes, 8. Hold that thought)
This is the bottom half of the box being test-fitted with the base of the box. I intended to have a band of wood in a 3rd color going around the box at the midpoint, so the top and bottom halves were assembled and glued-up separately. Somehow, I grossly overestimated the total height I'd need to clear the cards once it was finished, and had to remove 7/8" of material from the bottom section. The center band will now go just above the base of the box, along the bottom.
The sliding lid of the deck vault is the first element so far that has worked on more-or-less the first attempt. Actually kind of proud of this part. It has a very satisfying fit.
I stacked up all the pieces just to get a look at the rough dimensions of the final product. (single-sleeved prerelease deck for scale)
--------------------------
Now, here's where I admit that I made some big-ish mistakes today. Correcting the misalignment of the wall pieces actually worked fairly well, but I inadvertently made some unwanted resizing of the finger width in some of the joints. The result is unsightly gaps in a few places. I'll probably "fix" them with wood filler before staining, and just be satisfied with a less-then-aesthetically-perfect result.
But that's not the big mistake. I carefully marked the top edges of each bottom wall, so I wouldn't get them confused while running them through my makeshift dado stack. Then I promptly got them confused and ended up over-adjusting one of the walls. This resulted in a lopsided fit and too much shrinkage. If I had adjusted the other pieces to even out the fit, the box would not have been big enough to accommodate cards... which sort of defeats the purpose. I'm not sure how I'll compensate for this. Either more wood filler, or I'll try to insert wood shims of the appropriate size to make up the difference. Either way, I'll have to sand the outside of the box down quite a bit to make up for the bad fit. I'm crossing my fingers that the thinner walls will still be sturdy enough.
I'm honestly kind of burnt out on this project now. I'm anxious to use what I've learned to start something new that I can do the right way from step one. Bit this one will probably still get finished as a labor of love. It wouldn't be a good sign if I abandon my first project.
Google Drive doesn't make it simple to hotlink images. I had forgotten to change the sharing settings.
Every now and then, some random interest takes hold of me and drags me around by the pinky toe until suddenly letting go and disappearing forever. They've run the gamut from language-learning, to music composition, to game system development. This time, it's woodworking. (Super convenient, since I live in a small apartment, and can't afford expensive power tools anyway, yay!)
Behold my slow, clumsy progress at crafting a deck vault for a double-sleeved commander deck.
Tools:
I have to set up shop at work, meaning I can only really do anything on the weekends. I work in the tech department for a school district, and our offices are located in the garage where the old auto shop class used to be.
I was surprised how much material ends up in the form of sawdust. The cut pieces on the left came from a board the same size as the one on the right. Geez.
All 4 walls of the box in their larval form.
After arranging and gluing the pieces, the final design of the box begins to reveal itself. (Note: I made the mistake of aligning the outside ends instead of the inside ends on the first batch, making the joint impossible to fit together cleanly. Tomorrow I'll have to finagle some way to dig out enough material to even them out without causing too much shrinkage. Will likely have to rig up some contraption on my very non-adjustable table saw to trick it into being a dado cutter.)
Will update tomorrow with pics of the lid and base. I'll either figure out a good way to cut rabbets or lose a finger (or both!)
Not a big fan of the comic itself ever since I stopped being a teenager. I stopped keeping up with it over 10 years ago, but Percy the Cat was always my favorite character.
I'm planning my first cube and trying to make it a ground-up affair. I took a 14-year hiatus from the game in 2004, so my internal encyclopedia is... incomplete to say the least. This guide is exactly what I was looking for: a comprehensive but concise resource that avoids just providing a simple pre-made cube list. Thankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthanky...
Love me some mill, but it'll be a challenge to make it competitive in Legacy. I'd recommend moving all of your aggro strategies to the SB, and adding in more & better mill spells along with some utility.
surgical extraction, Visions of Beyond, Archive Trap, and Glimpse the unthinkable have already been mentioned.
I'll also suggest Ghost Quarter to encourage library searching, triggering the trap (especially Game 2, when your opponent is wise to your mill strategy, only plays their 3 basics, and then effectively gets Strip Mined). I love having a playset of Twincast, which can function as 2-mana Archive Traps or just 2-mana Ancestral Recall using Ancestral Visions.
Another utility land to consider is Shelldock Isle. Add in some scry or deck manipulation, and the randomness can be somewhat mitigated. Besta luck!
I didn't edit the entire piece of art, just what was necessary to fit on the card. It involved overlapping several elements of the painting, so the final edit is only about as big as the selection on the card. But I'll post it anyway. Gimme a minute.
Thanks for the feedback!
EDIT: Here's the art.
Gaea's Cradle
Art: Llanowar (heavily edited)
Tolarian Academy
Art: Academy at Tolaria West
Not sure if I'll bother with the other two. They're not very popular, and the art on shiv just doesn't speak to me. I'll be updating Serra's Sanctum to include the gradient on the nameplate.
The way I see it, hexproof and shroud are there to prevent permanents from being interacted with by spells and abilities whose "targets" are chosen by their caster. A single spell shouldn't be able to both a) nullify hexproof AND b) negatively affect its target. There are already ways to work around hexproof, like sacrifice effects, "all/each" effects, and triggered abilities that don't need to target. As others have mentioned, there's even precedence for an effect removing hexproof entirely, but allowing the same effect to also harm the ex-hexproof creature doesn't seem like a good mechanic to me.
Another workaround for "targeting" hexproof creatures could be to make it a liability instead of removing it...
Persecutor of the Righteous --- 1BB
Creature - Human Cleric --- 1/3
When Persecutor of the Righteous enters the battlefield, creatures your opponents control get -1/-1 until end of turn.
3BB, t: Creatures your opponents control get -1/-1 until end of turn. Then, for each opponent, if he or she controls a creature with hexproof, put a -1/-1 counter on each creature he or she controls.
So, it's still a utility creature based on -1/-1 counters, still somewhat hoses hexproof creatures, and doesn't introduce any un-fun mechanics. Whatcha think?
Bruna, Light of Alabaster (Super Art)
Finally ready to start assembling my first EDH deck, and she will likely be my general of choice.
Serra's Sanctum (2 takes on altered Unhinged styles)
A couple different versions, including one using the art for the Sanctum of Serra planar card.
And here's my Urza's Saga mythic set symbol
Cheers and toodles.