I agree that adding $1000 to the list for the extra product (foreign singles and sealed) is very low.
I think another $500 to $1000 would be acceptable. Forces, even foreign, would still be about $300 for the playset. Italian Karakas would be at least $100 apiece. Mana drain is at least $150 for Italian. Invoke Predjudice is probably around $70-$80 (??) for Italian.
If the 4th edition Birds of Paradise is black bordered, it will actually be worth more than a normal 4th edition version. Somewhere between $20-$40 depending on the language. Same with Demonic tutor (black bordered foreign Revised is worth more than white bordered English revised).
With the rest of what you have (All Hallow's Eve, In the Eye of Chaos) I would suggest asking an additional $1,500 to $2,000 at least for the additional inclusions. This is still lower than it is worth, but as you are trying to sell it at once, I think this is at least reasonable for both parties.
Regarding signed cards, everyone has their own preference. If I was buying your collection I would be buying it for my own use and not to sell, so keep in mind my opinion is based off that. Depending on the cards, I would ask that they be excluded as well. If they are relatively cheap cards, I would probably keep them included just to have, but I would never buy a signed Dual, Workshop, Candelabra, etc. and I wouldn't want the price of the collection affected by expensive cards I have no interest in. I am one of those people that view signed cards as damaged and the market for signed cards is narrow. You have to find a person who wants the card signed and with the signature you have (usually the artist, but Richard Garfield's signature can be valuable to the right person, no matter the card).
Well, if you take out all the cards below a dolalr, your value is about $15,519. Take out the cards below $2 and it is just over $15,000 (which isn't a huge difference).
I think if you look at it this way and that many people are going to see all the cards below $1 or $2 as bulk (not worth anything to them) your real low value is somewhere around $15,000. Another fact is that almost $2,000 of your collection is Collector's edition cards. There is no denying that these have value but if I was looking at this collection, I would ask that you exclude them from the collection and work out a deal based on the rest of the collection. Your current buyer may not feel the same way, but I think some people would.
Based on this, and based on the fact that you are trying to sell it all at once, I think $13,000 is a good price. This is basically exactly what your collection is worth when you remove the Collector's Edition cards and all cards below $2. Since you have someone buying at that price, they are basically getting $2,000 in Collector's edition cards for free and you get one lump sum.
I was trying to come up with a lazy mill idea and was wondering how exactly would you stack and perform if you had a sphinx's tutelage in play and cast a multi-draw effect. My reasoning is that I would draw and my opponent would mill accordingly for every draw.
Now, what about a spell that makes us both draw cards such as Fascination? I draw 1, he draws 1 and then he mills once; repeat until we drew everything?
Here's a bugger: I cast burning inquiry. How in the world would you resolve this? As previously mentioned and then discard? Draw all 3, discard and then mill?
You fully resolve whatever spell you are casting before putting Sphinx's triggers on the stack., Note that they do trigger immediately when a card is drawn but they don't go onto the stack until the current spell has finished resolving.
In both examples, you would both draw the requisite number of cards (X for Fascination and 3 for Burning Inquiry) and then you would have that many Sphinx's Tutelage triggers to resolve. In this case of Burning Inquiry, both players would discard before the Sphinx's Tutelage triggers are put onto the stack.
Hi, I'm new to MTG, some of my friends showed me how to play a bit(a while back), but I have had no practice. I've made a deck kind of recently out of some of my cards. It doesn't really look like it is going to work, but I tried. I haven't played it against anyone yet. I'll post the 'deck' below and maybe someone will help me improve? I'm really liking the 'deathtouch' and 'lifelink' cards that I see, so in the future I would like my deck to have that more. BG
Some of the cards aren't coming up, like 'Custodian of the Trove', 'Bow of Nylea', 'Ebony Owl Netsuke' and 'Gnawing Zombie'. Nvm.
My question is can someone explain more about 'draft'? I was looking at places that play MTG and have events in my town, and there's a MTG draft night. I've read some articles about it and I don't really understand fully.
First, to answer your question about Draft:
Draft is format where you have 8 people that sitting around a table. Each person has 3 packs of whatever set(s) you are drafting. Most likely, you would be drafting with Origins as it is the newest set.
Every player opens their first pack and chooses one card from it and places it face down in a pile. Then, you pass that pack to the person on your left and you choose 1 card from the pack you got from the player on your right. You can only look at one pack at a time so if someone passes you a pack while you are still deciding which card to choose, you have to choose a card from the current pack before looking at the next one.
This continues until all cards from that pack are chosen. Then, you open the second pack and pass it to the right. Then do the same thing with the third pack, but pass it back to the left.
Then, you build a 40 card deck out of the cards you have drafted and there is no limit to the number of each card you put into your deck as long as you drafted it. So, if you manage to draft 6 Akroan Jailer you can put all of them in your deck. The geneal rule of thumb is 17 lands, 23 spells. This can change depending on what you draft however.
In regards to your deck, I understand you are trying to build a deck using cards you have, but there are a few things I would change. First, you normally want 3-4 of each card (as a general rule; there are exceptions of course). Try to get more duplicates if you can.
I also see your curve is fairly high. When I say curve, I mean the mana cost of cards in your deck. So, you have a few cards that are low mana cost, but quite a few in the 4-7 range and too many in that spot will cause issues with your deck being too slow.
There are some individual cards that would be easy to cut. Hunger of the Nim isn't very good since you only have 3 artifacts and there is no guarantee they will be on the battlefield when you cast it. I would get rid of it.
I would also get rid of Custodian of the Trove since it has a high mana cost and comes into play tapped. It also has defender so it is very slow.
I would also get rid of Rites of Reaping as it costs a lot for very little payoff. The same goes for Archweaver.
I would try to double up on some of your Heroic creatures and some of your spells, like Giant Growth, that can get heroic to trigger. I would get rid of your small black creatures for now as they don't really fit into the rest of the deck. In fact, I would try to build a mono-green build built around heroic if you have some more, smaller, heroic creatures in green. If you don't, you can look into white for some early turn plays.
The big things to keep in mind when building are:
Keep your curve low (generally no more than 5 or 6 with most being 1-4). Bigger splashy spells can go in (like Rune-Scarred Demon, but they have to be worth the mana cost)
Synergy - Get cards that work together. A few of your spells and Heroic creatures are synergistic, but the black cards are not as much, even with each other (though Gnawing Zombie and Shambling Goblin are somewhat synergistic). That's why I would suggest a mono-green build or maybe White-Green.
Make sure you have the right number of lands. This depends on your curve, but a good starting point it 24 lands in a 60 card deck.
There are a number of ways you can build decks so my advice may be different than others, and some depends on your other cards in your collection.
During my opponent's turn, am I able to tap the Tracker using the Lawkeeper before my opponent pays the cost of the Tracker's ability and taps it to have their 3/3 fight with my 1/1?
I'm unsure because it seems like at any point in a turn where instants and activated abilities can be played, that my opponent would have priority first, and so there'd be no way for me to tap the Tracker before it does its ability.
You are correct that the opponent would have priority during their turn to activate Ulvenwald Tracker's ability first. You would not be able to respond to that to tap down their creature because they would have tapped it to activate the ability. Unless they activate the ability during the upkeep, you would get priority there to activate Lawkeeper's ability to tap it down so you could theoretically activate your creature's ability before they activate theirs.
However, if you do activate your ability and target their Tracker, they can just respond while that ability is on the stack by tapping their creature to have it fight one of yours. There is very little opportunity for you to do what you want as they can just respond to what you do.
I generally have no preference as I just go with the cheapest option available. However, If price between the old frame and new frame is fairly close, I will go with the old frame. I do try to avoid Commander sets though. I just don't like the way the Set Symbol is so large compared to others. I am not sure why it bothers me.
That being said, I do whatever I can to get black bordered versions of cards. For example, I needed to pick up a Verduran Enchantress for an Enchantress deck I built and the only black bordered sets it was printed in were Alpha and Beta. I almost did pick up a Beta version, but I decided to get a Foil 8th edition because I preferred that art (and it was cheaper than Beta).
The only cards I don't typically go out of my way to get black bordered versions of are ones that were only printed in Alpha, Beta, Unlimited, and/or Revised because of price. So, all my duals are currently Revised, although I do plan on picking up a full set of FBB Duals at some point because I prefer the black borders.
So let's say you had a 0/4 creature with indestructible. Could you block more than what your toughness has? Like could you block a 4/4 then go and block another 4/4 creature?
Creatures can only block one creature each combat unless the creature says otherwise (Hundred-Handed One for example). You can block a creature with a greater power though. So, your 0/4 indestructible can block an 8/8 creature if you want and you won't take damage (unless the 8/8 has trample of course).
Hello wonderful forum people, great vast wells of knowledge greater than I. So during last nights FNM, a situation came up, and no one knew what the exact rules where. So I am here to find them out, with the help of you.
So Quick back ground of what happened.
3rd Round (of 4). One of the local guys vs a kid who is 9 I think (Age doesnt matter, hes a pretty cool kid, I played him Round 2, lost 2-1 to Infect, really polite). So anyways, we've caught the local guy (Hense forth known as Guy, prob late 20's) cheating. How? Mana Weaving his deck. Split pile 1 land, 2 cards, 1 land, 2 cards, etc. Then hand 'shuffles' his deck (he splits the deck in 1/2 in his hand, *attempts* to put the top 1/2 on the bottom, and just repeats this several times). It doesnt break the randomization of mana weaving. So the kid called a judge over (props kid), and the judge (store judge, not sanctioned), even called Guy on it, hes been caught doing this in Commander as well, cycling perfected cards to the top for draw. The judges response was, kid can shuffle Guys deck if he wants, its within the rules. So Guy presents his deck, kid picks up Guys deck carefully, and carefully shuffles it (I was watching the entire game, because I felt Guy was trying to bully Kid, given the age difference). Kid presents deck back, Guy shuffles it himself, re-presents it, kid split cuts the deck (cuts the deck in 5 different piles, and then restacks them im a random order). Guy resuffles, re-presents, kid does the same thing, pile cuts. Guy tries to call Kid for Stalling (which I just laughed at). Now here was the problem. No one knew the rules on what the technical rules are for cutting and shuffling. After the judge didnt know, I chimed in and said that both would be called for stalling, and more so on Guy, as the Kid as every right to cut his deck last, and that Guy was the one drawing out the process (I dont know if Im right, however something needed to be said, just to get the game to move forward). Finally Guy got the point and they played on.
So now to the real question
1) What is the official procedure when it comes to shuffling. I know in higher REL's that your opponent shuffles your deck. FNM typically you shuffle your own, and present for cutting.
2) What is considered the difference between cutting a deck vs shuffling a deck (after presentation). Is there a limit on how many times a 'cut' can be preformed before it is classified as shuffling.
3) To my understanding, your opponent should be the last person to touch your deck before you draw your 7 (or offered at least). So all in all what is the correct way of how this works (For both FNM and High level REL's).
4) Is it cheating if you un-mana weave his deck (I.E take his deck, sort it back out 1 - 2, then put one stack on top of another, this would put all his land together (either on top or bottom), and all his non-land on top or bottom)
and lastly, any other things that relate to shuffling/cutting/deck presentation. And, if continually caught doing this, even at FNM, would any of the punishments (Game Loss, Tourny DQ, etc), be appropriate at a FNM (not for first offense, but for multiple)
And once again, Thank you all forum people. You are a wounder group of knowledge who shares their experience and opinions.
I don't have all the answers, but I can answer some of your questions:
1) Shuffling and presenting is a one time thing. So, you would shuffle your deck and present it to your opponent who then has the option of shuffling/cutting and then gives the deck back to the owner. That is it. You can't keep shuffling the deck yourself. Once you have presented your deck to your opponent, you can no longer manipulate the deck in any way. "Guy" in the story above broke this rule by constantly shuffling his deck after his opponent had. I am not sure of the infraction, but I am sure there is one.
2) I am not totally sure. Most lower levels just suffice with a cut. I am not sure on the rules as to how many cuts need to happen before it is considered shuffled at higher levels.
3) See the answer to #1
4) Yes, that would be cheating since you have to look at their deck to truly un-mana weave it. A judge should be called and they should sort it out. There is an infraction for presenting an insufficiently randomized deck (which "Guy" could have gotten), but I am not sure how that would be applied.
There are infractions that can be issued, but someone else may need to comment on the applicability of those infractions at this level.
So, say I control Kytheon's Irregulars . It is the first main phase of my turn. I decided to active the ability and tap a creature that my opponent controls before I go into combat. What exactly happens if he respond with Feat of Resistance and gives his creature protection from white? Can he do this?
Thanks is advance.
Yes, he can do that. The ability of Kytheon's Irregular's will be countered on resolution since its target is now illegal.
If I have two Bottled Cloisters in play, how does that work? Do I exile my hand twice, bring it back twice, something weird like that?
More importantly, do I draw two cards per turn, on top of my regular draw?
Yes.
What happens is this:
Let's say you have 4 cards in hand with two Cloisters on the battlefield.
At the beginning of your opponent's upkeep, your two triggers go on the stack. You can order them however you want, though it probably won't matter.
The first trigger resolves and you exile the cards in your hand. You now have 0 cards in hand, Then, the second trigger resolves and you exile your hand again (but this time you don't have any since they were already exiled by the first trigger). You still have 0 cards in hand.
During your upkeep, both triggers go on the stack and you can order them however you want. The first one resolves and you return those 4 cards back to your hand and draw a card. Then, the second resolves and you return 0 cards to your hand (since 0 were exiled) and then draw a card.
The end result is that you will have 6 cards in your hand during your upkeep (7 after your draw step) in this scenario. It doesn't matter that you were unable to exile cards with the second trigger. You will still get to draw an extra card during your upkeep.
Also, it matters which Cloister actually did the exiling. Let's say you let the first trigger resolve to exile your hand, and that is Cloister A. Cloister B did not exile anything. If they destroy Cloister A before your upkeep, you will not get your cards back from Cloister B's trigger because the cards were exiled with Cloister A and Cloister B will not see those cards.
It was the current Standard set when Homelands was in Standard. The rule was in place mostly because of how bad Homelands was. A lot of decks ran Serrated Arrows simply because it was the only semi-playable card in the set.
They requires at least 5 cards from each Standard Legal set at the time. I am not sure how long it lasted.
That was never the rule for Type 2 (Standard). That was the rule for the first Pro Tour event, but it was only ever used at that one event.
I tried finding more info on it and I couldn't find the exact details. So, it looks like it was even more short-lived than I thought.
It was the current Standard set when Homelands was in Standard. The rule was in place mostly because of how bad Homelands was. A lot of decks ran Serrated Arrows simply because it was the only semi-playable card in the set.
They requires at least 5 cards from each Standard Legal set at the time. I am not sure how long it lasted.
Say Player A had 10 permanents and 5 cards in hand. They would shuffle up and draw 15 cards. Then, they put 2 lands in play. So they would have 13 cards in hand and 2 permanents in play and then draw 15 cards again.
Even if a player got no lands from the first one, they still have 15 cards in hand so they would draw 15 cards again.
Dragoon91 was correct in that it doesn't seem like an additional copy of Great Aurora would make any significant impact to the board state that the first copy didn't already do.
If anything, it sort of does the opposite of rob people of resources since you'll end up with the same number of cards involved, but you have a chance to float some mana between.
That's actually a good point. I agree that it potentially does even less than 1 copy would do.
I think another $500 to $1000 would be acceptable. Forces, even foreign, would still be about $300 for the playset. Italian Karakas would be at least $100 apiece. Mana drain is at least $150 for Italian. Invoke Predjudice is probably around $70-$80 (??) for Italian.
If the 4th edition Birds of Paradise is black bordered, it will actually be worth more than a normal 4th edition version. Somewhere between $20-$40 depending on the language. Same with Demonic tutor (black bordered foreign Revised is worth more than white bordered English revised).
With the rest of what you have (All Hallow's Eve, In the Eye of Chaos) I would suggest asking an additional $1,500 to $2,000 at least for the additional inclusions. This is still lower than it is worth, but as you are trying to sell it at once, I think this is at least reasonable for both parties.
Regarding signed cards, everyone has their own preference. If I was buying your collection I would be buying it for my own use and not to sell, so keep in mind my opinion is based off that. Depending on the cards, I would ask that they be excluded as well. If they are relatively cheap cards, I would probably keep them included just to have, but I would never buy a signed Dual, Workshop, Candelabra, etc. and I wouldn't want the price of the collection affected by expensive cards I have no interest in. I am one of those people that view signed cards as damaged and the market for signed cards is narrow. You have to find a person who wants the card signed and with the signature you have (usually the artist, but Richard Garfield's signature can be valuable to the right person, no matter the card).
I think if you look at it this way and that many people are going to see all the cards below $1 or $2 as bulk (not worth anything to them) your real low value is somewhere around $15,000. Another fact is that almost $2,000 of your collection is Collector's edition cards. There is no denying that these have value but if I was looking at this collection, I would ask that you exclude them from the collection and work out a deal based on the rest of the collection. Your current buyer may not feel the same way, but I think some people would.
Based on this, and based on the fact that you are trying to sell it all at once, I think $13,000 is a good price. This is basically exactly what your collection is worth when you remove the Collector's Edition cards and all cards below $2. Since you have someone buying at that price, they are basically getting $2,000 in Collector's edition cards for free and you get one lump sum.
You fully resolve whatever spell you are casting before putting Sphinx's triggers on the stack., Note that they do trigger immediately when a card is drawn but they don't go onto the stack until the current spell has finished resolving.
In both examples, you would both draw the requisite number of cards (X for Fascination and 3 for Burning Inquiry) and then you would have that many Sphinx's Tutelage triggers to resolve. In this case of Burning Inquiry, both players would discard before the Sphinx's Tutelage triggers are put onto the stack.
First, to answer your question about Draft:
Draft is format where you have 8 people that sitting around a table. Each person has 3 packs of whatever set(s) you are drafting. Most likely, you would be drafting with Origins as it is the newest set.
Every player opens their first pack and chooses one card from it and places it face down in a pile. Then, you pass that pack to the person on your left and you choose 1 card from the pack you got from the player on your right. You can only look at one pack at a time so if someone passes you a pack while you are still deciding which card to choose, you have to choose a card from the current pack before looking at the next one.
This continues until all cards from that pack are chosen. Then, you open the second pack and pass it to the right. Then do the same thing with the third pack, but pass it back to the left.
Then, you build a 40 card deck out of the cards you have drafted and there is no limit to the number of each card you put into your deck as long as you drafted it. So, if you manage to draft 6 Akroan Jailer you can put all of them in your deck. The geneal rule of thumb is 17 lands, 23 spells. This can change depending on what you draft however.
In regards to your deck, I understand you are trying to build a deck using cards you have, but there are a few things I would change. First, you normally want 3-4 of each card (as a general rule; there are exceptions of course). Try to get more duplicates if you can.
I also see your curve is fairly high. When I say curve, I mean the mana cost of cards in your deck. So, you have a few cards that are low mana cost, but quite a few in the 4-7 range and too many in that spot will cause issues with your deck being too slow.
There are some individual cards that would be easy to cut. Hunger of the Nim isn't very good since you only have 3 artifacts and there is no guarantee they will be on the battlefield when you cast it. I would get rid of it.
I would also get rid of Custodian of the Trove since it has a high mana cost and comes into play tapped. It also has defender so it is very slow.
I would also get rid of Rites of Reaping as it costs a lot for very little payoff. The same goes for Archweaver.
I would try to double up on some of your Heroic creatures and some of your spells, like Giant Growth, that can get heroic to trigger. I would get rid of your small black creatures for now as they don't really fit into the rest of the deck. In fact, I would try to build a mono-green build built around heroic if you have some more, smaller, heroic creatures in green. If you don't, you can look into white for some early turn plays.
The big things to keep in mind when building are:
Keep your curve low (generally no more than 5 or 6 with most being 1-4). Bigger splashy spells can go in (like Rune-Scarred Demon, but they have to be worth the mana cost)
Synergy - Get cards that work together. A few of your spells and Heroic creatures are synergistic, but the black cards are not as much, even with each other (though Gnawing Zombie and Shambling Goblin are somewhat synergistic). That's why I would suggest a mono-green build or maybe White-Green.
Make sure you have the right number of lands. This depends on your curve, but a good starting point it 24 lands in a 60 card deck.
There are a number of ways you can build decks so my advice may be different than others, and some depends on your other cards in your collection.
You are correct that the opponent would have priority during their turn to activate Ulvenwald Tracker's ability first. You would not be able to respond to that to tap down their creature because they would have tapped it to activate the ability. Unless they activate the ability during the upkeep, you would get priority there to activate Lawkeeper's ability to tap it down so you could theoretically activate your creature's ability before they activate theirs.
However, if you do activate your ability and target their Tracker, they can just respond while that ability is on the stack by tapping their creature to have it fight one of yours. There is very little opportunity for you to do what you want as they can just respond to what you do.
That being said, I do whatever I can to get black bordered versions of cards. For example, I needed to pick up a Verduran Enchantress for an Enchantress deck I built and the only black bordered sets it was printed in were Alpha and Beta. I almost did pick up a Beta version, but I decided to get a Foil 8th edition because I preferred that art (and it was cheaper than Beta).
The only cards I don't typically go out of my way to get black bordered versions of are ones that were only printed in Alpha, Beta, Unlimited, and/or Revised because of price. So, all my duals are currently Revised, although I do plan on picking up a full set of FBB Duals at some point because I prefer the black borders.
Yes and yes. Sage's Reverie is an aura attached to a creature.
Creatures can only block one creature each combat unless the creature says otherwise (Hundred-Handed One for example). You can block a creature with a greater power though. So, your 0/4 indestructible can block an 8/8 creature if you want and you won't take damage (unless the 8/8 has trample of course).
I don't have all the answers, but I can answer some of your questions:
1) Shuffling and presenting is a one time thing. So, you would shuffle your deck and present it to your opponent who then has the option of shuffling/cutting and then gives the deck back to the owner. That is it. You can't keep shuffling the deck yourself. Once you have presented your deck to your opponent, you can no longer manipulate the deck in any way. "Guy" in the story above broke this rule by constantly shuffling his deck after his opponent had. I am not sure of the infraction, but I am sure there is one.
2) I am not totally sure. Most lower levels just suffice with a cut. I am not sure on the rules as to how many cuts need to happen before it is considered shuffled at higher levels.
3) See the answer to #1
4) Yes, that would be cheating since you have to look at their deck to truly un-mana weave it. A judge should be called and they should sort it out. There is an infraction for presenting an insufficiently randomized deck (which "Guy" could have gotten), but I am not sure how that would be applied.
There are infractions that can be issued, but someone else may need to comment on the applicability of those infractions at this level.
It is constantly changing as your opponents' life totals are changing.
Yes, he can do that. The ability of Kytheon's Irregular's will be countered on resolution since its target is now illegal.
Yes.
What happens is this:
Let's say you have 4 cards in hand with two Cloisters on the battlefield.
At the beginning of your opponent's upkeep, your two triggers go on the stack. You can order them however you want, though it probably won't matter.
The first trigger resolves and you exile the cards in your hand. You now have 0 cards in hand, Then, the second trigger resolves and you exile your hand again (but this time you don't have any since they were already exiled by the first trigger). You still have 0 cards in hand.
During your upkeep, both triggers go on the stack and you can order them however you want. The first one resolves and you return those 4 cards back to your hand and draw a card. Then, the second resolves and you return 0 cards to your hand (since 0 were exiled) and then draw a card.
The end result is that you will have 6 cards in your hand during your upkeep (7 after your draw step) in this scenario. It doesn't matter that you were unable to exile cards with the second trigger. You will still get to draw an extra card during your upkeep.
Also, it matters which Cloister actually did the exiling. Let's say you let the first trigger resolve to exile your hand, and that is Cloister A. Cloister B did not exile anything. If they destroy Cloister A before your upkeep, you will not get your cards back from Cloister B's trigger because the cards were exiled with Cloister A and Cloister B will not see those cards.
I tried finding more info on it and I couldn't find the exact details. So, it looks like it was even more short-lived than I thought.
They requires at least 5 cards from each Standard Legal set at the time. I am not sure how long it lasted.
That's actually a good point. I agree that it potentially does even less than 1 copy would do.