Duress' are okay, right?
I don't want to send a [poorly done] planeswalker and receive something like an island, but for the most part I really don't care. It's all about the spirit and fun-ness of it
Im totally in and if no one else steps up Id be willing to act as the postal hub guy as well but Im probably not the best as I am in Canada thus I am at the mercy of the pittiful Canada Posts mail system.
V- Wow the whole idea that you would name me as an inspiration for such a wonderful piece is really an honor thank you very much and I absloutely love the alter it's a fantastic rendition.
Im totally in and if no one else steps up Id be willing to act as the postal hub guy as well but Im probably not the best as I am in Canada thus I am at the mercy of the pittiful Canada Posts mail system.
Eek, the Canada postal service.
Well, if we act quickly, we may get them in time for Xmas of 2010
Dude, I'd totally be up for a swap. Maybe anyone who will commit should all like send our info and a list of decks we play to a moderator or something, and he could match that info randomly with others. And it could be required that we report when we get our package with a picture -- that way if anyone stiffs anyone we'd all know it and could stone the jerk.
We should also set like expectations or something (are we talking a funny altered terror? or a bad-A Lotus Cobra?)
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"From infancy on, we are all spies; the shame is not this but that the secrets to be discovered are so paltry and few." - John Updike
Dude, I'd totally be up for a swap. Maybe anyone who will commit should all like send our info and a list of decks we play to a moderator or something, and he could match that info randomly with others. And it could be required that we report when we get our package with a picture -- that way if anyone stiffs anyone we'd all know it and could stone the jerk.
We should also set like expectations or something (are we talking a funny altered terror? or a bad-A Lotus Cobra?)
LOL.
The point is that you make someone's holiday season by sending a completely creative card that has your own touch to it, not some super expensive chase rare, and not some card you want. It's meant to be a pleasant surprise, and sending a decklist isn't much fun.
Haha! I wouldn't complain at a chase, I plan on sending a solid card out, something in the $5-$10 range. The better stuff we send out, the better stuff we get back!
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My Altered Cards.
I do inexpensive, quality commissions.
PM if interested.
I did a plains today, might post it later, depending on how well it looks to me. I personally think it looks terabad, but, such is the way of a newbie alterer with no paints.
Haha! I wouldn't complain at a chase, I plan on sending a solid card out, something in the $5-$10 range. The better stuff we send out, the better stuff we get back!
I'm not saying I wouldn't complain at a chase, I'm just saying we shouldn't have the expectation of a chase. I would do something in the $5-$10 range if A) I had any cards actually worth that much And B) Wouldn't ruin them.
Bah....I just think I'm facing a lack of ideas/colorblending skills
Do you guys have any recommendations to improve colormatching? Like, I have liquid acrylics and such but I just really, really can't get colors right, and when I get them close, they look nothing like the card because the artist used different brush strokes. Help ?
First off, are you mixing properly? Don't use blacks to darken, etc? Color's (RYB) hue is dulled by white, black lowers the lightness of the color. Try using blue to darken hues instead of black, that way you still hold onto the color instead of it getting dominated by the black. I know there is a better and more technical way to say what I said, but I don't know the terms well enough as I am self-taught.
Second, you won't be able to achieve the brushstrokes that the artists create. The best you can do is match the image itself and extend what the image is trying to say, not the artist. I do a lot of feathering techniques and watered down paint for even texture.
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My Altered Cards.
I do inexpensive, quality commissions.
PM if interested.
One little trick that might work for you is to slightly pull in some of your own brushstrokes over the original art. It's hard to explain in words...
I don't mean to universally pull your alterations inside the image, but rather little points where your artwork extends beyond the boundry of your alteration and into the original art. This can lead to balance, and it can also remove some of the original artists "hand" and replace it with your own. If that makes sense.
I also am a huge advocate of painting in layers. Try an undercoat, and then use a few thin layers on top of it.
There are also limitations of every palette. What colors are you using (brand and exact name)? If I know what pigments you are using I'll be able to help some.
This is one of your nicer pieces kitty. The paint is nice and tight around the text; the lightning is subtle and makes sense. I wish you had left out the expansion symbol and the p/t box on the goyf. Anyway, nice work!
EDIT: I'm pretty good at unknowingly getting the top of the thread. That's two out of three pages!
Also, when using Golden Acrylics, the Raw Umber acts as a wonderful matte agent.
Getting a little bit of it in your background colors (when possible) will cause the paints to dry to an almost perfect eggshell finish that matches a magic card's gloss.
It is a very useful thing, actually. If you are black bordering a card, use a mix of Black, Raw Umber, and a hiiiiint of white. Amount changes depending on set and age of card.
"Take two steps north into the unsettled future, south in to the unquiet past, east into the present day, or west into the great unknown." - Urza's Journal.
Thank you to Zaphod and spiderboy at High~Light Studios.
There are also limitations of every palette. What colors are you using (brand and exact name)? If I know what pigments you are using I'll be able to help some.
And what they said.
I'm using Americana Acrylics colors: Primary Blue, True Red, Festive Green, Bright Yellow, Snow (Titanium) White, and Lamp (Ebony) Black.
As for pigments, I have no idea where I would find that.
Just basic painting lessons from college... but It's generally good to have two blues, two reds, two yellows as the base of your palette, because of how they mix. You gotta keep in mind, different, seemingly similar colors, might mix differently.
Must have missed that top. And I agree that is so cool. I like how you'd recognize its association with counterbalance at the same time not being too obvious.
I'm using Americana Acrylics colors: Primary Blue, True Red, Festive Green, Bright Yellow, Snow (Titanium) White, and Lamp (Ebony) Black.
As for pigments, I have no idea where I would find that.
Americana Acrylics are going to provide a host of issues. They absolutely have their uses, but they are really a craft paint. They work best when you are looking for opaque finishes and aren't too concerned with layers of paint and subtle mixing. The reason? They are all very low on colored pigment and all of them contain white. White pigment in your primary colors is going to make color matching almost impossible and your ability to control them will be next to zero. No matter what color you are trying to match, you will end up with a chalky (the white pigment) layer of paint.
The reason you can't find the pigments is because they don't put them on the jar of paint. This is generally a bad sign with regards to artist quality paints because they are essentially saying that they know you don't care what's in the paint. And, with AA that is true most of the time. People want to paint something orange and they buy the orange that is closest to what they want. For people like you, who need very very specific colors and layer, they aren't going to cut it.
I recommend finding a line of paints that does say what pigments are in them. You'll be able to control them a lot more and should be a lot happier with the results. Avoid any color that has Zinc White (PW4) and Titanium White (PW6). I always say that if I wanted white in my paint, I'd add it when I need to. In fact, I use nothing but single pigment paints. Of course, it takes time to learn how a palette works, but the control is the issue and you should be happier with them.
Just basic painting lessons from college... but It's generally good to have two blues, two reds, two yellows as the base of your palette, because of how they mix. You gotta keep in mind, different, seemingly similar colors, might mix differently.
6 Primaries is a really good way to work.
The best way to get started is to make sure you have:
Red 1 - Leans towards Violet
Red 2 - Leans towards Orange
Yellow 1 - Leans towards Orange
Yellow 2 - Leans towards Green
Blue 1 - Leans towards Violet
Blue 2 - Leans towards Green
White 1 - Titanium White used sparingly.
I also like to make sure that 1 of each color is highly transparent and 1 in semi-opaque or translucent. That seems to be the palette that give you the best chance for success right away. This is more of a fine art arrangement, but it's a guide I guess.
I'm curious what other people use. Right now for painting cards I use:
Titanium White - Heavy Body Acrylics
Carbon Black - Airbrush Acrylics
Burnt Sienna - Heavy Body Acrylics
Yellow Ochre - Heavy Body Acrylics
Pthalo Blue R.S. - Airbrush Acrylics
and occasionally...
Quinacridone Burnt Orange - Heavy Body Acrylics
Pthalo Green Y.S. - Airbrush Acrylics
Cadmium Orange - Heavy Body Acrylics
Quinacridone Magenta - Heavy Body Acrylics
That seems to match most of the cards I have had to do. Daarken's cards are nuts. I can usually finish one with Black, White, Ochre, Burnt Sienna, that's it.
I don't want to send a [poorly done] planeswalker and receive something like an island, but for the most part I really don't care. It's all about the spirit and fun-ness of it
Quotes in blog.
V- Wow the whole idea that you would name me as an inspiration for such a wonderful piece is really an honor thank you very much and I absloutely love the alter it's a fantastic rendition.
My Traders.
http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=155934
My Blog
http://bleedingteddy.blogspot.com/
Eek, the Canada postal service.
Well, if we act quickly, we may get them in time for Xmas of 2010
We should also set like expectations or something (are we talking a funny altered terror? or a bad-A Lotus Cobra?)
"From infancy on, we are all spies; the shame is not this but that the secrets to be discovered are so paltry and few." - John Updike
LOL.
The point is that you make someone's holiday season by sending a completely creative card that has your own touch to it, not some super expensive chase rare, and not some card you want. It's meant to be a pleasant surprise, and sending a decklist isn't much fun.
Quotes in blog.
I do inexpensive, quality commissions.
PM if interested.
"From infancy on, we are all spies; the shame is not this but that the secrets to be discovered are so paltry and few." - John Updike
and V: I like it alot =]
I did a plains today, might post it later, depending on how well it looks to me. I personally think it looks terabad, but, such is the way of a newbie alterer with no paints.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsjKsaxbnds <- Me.
Trades! Alters! Oh My!
Legacy: WUBRGDredgeGRBUW
EDH:BG Nath of the Guilty GearGB (defunct)
BUGDamia, Toolbox of Stone GUB
-Guild Wars 2-
Server: Fort Aspenwood
Character: Anarchy Stockingu - Lvl 80 Asura Engineer
I'm not saying I wouldn't complain at a chase, I'm just saying we shouldn't have the expectation of a chase. I would do something in the $5-$10 range if A) I had any cards actually worth that much And B) Wouldn't ruin them.
Bah....I just think I'm facing a lack of ideas/colorblending skills
Do you guys have any recommendations to improve colormatching? Like, I have liquid acrylics and such but I just really, really can't get colors right, and when I get them close, they look nothing like the card because the artist used different brush strokes. Help
Quotes in blog.
Second, you won't be able to achieve the brushstrokes that the artists create. The best you can do is match the image itself and extend what the image is trying to say, not the artist. I do a lot of feathering techniques and watered down paint for even texture.
I do inexpensive, quality commissions.
PM if interested.
I don't mean to universally pull your alterations inside the image, but rather little points where your artwork extends beyond the boundry of your alteration and into the original art. This can lead to balance, and it can also remove some of the original artists "hand" and replace it with your own. If that makes sense.
I also am a huge advocate of painting in layers. Try an undercoat, and then use a few thin layers on top of it.
And what they said.
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
I do inexpensive, quality commissions.
PM if interested.
This is one of your nicer pieces kitty. The paint is nice and tight around the text; the lightning is subtle and makes sense. I wish you had left out the expansion symbol and the p/t box on the goyf. Anyway, nice work!
EDIT: I'm pretty good at unknowingly getting the top of the thread. That's two out of three pages!
Facebook.
Alters Blog.
Sounds like one of draco mageat's pieces. You can try PMing him about it.
A card game about Presidents. Stabbing each other. With knives.
Getting a little bit of it in your background colors (when possible) will cause the paints to dry to an almost perfect eggshell finish that matches a magic card's gloss.
It is a very useful thing, actually. If you are black bordering a card, use a mix of Black, Raw Umber, and a hiiiiint of white. Amount changes depending on set and age of card.
Check Out My Card Gallery
Thank you to Zaphod and spiderboy at High~Light Studios.
Facebook.
Alters Blog.
I'm using Americana Acrylics colors: Primary Blue, True Red, Festive Green, Bright Yellow, Snow (Titanium) White, and Lamp (Ebony) Black.
As for pigments, I have no idea where I would find that.
Quotes in blog.
like. That is awesome. Very well painted, and i like how close it is to the original design.
Thanks to Zaph of High-Light Studios!
Join the [Pack]!
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Americana Acrylics are going to provide a host of issues. They absolutely have their uses, but they are really a craft paint. They work best when you are looking for opaque finishes and aren't too concerned with layers of paint and subtle mixing. The reason? They are all very low on colored pigment and all of them contain white. White pigment in your primary colors is going to make color matching almost impossible and your ability to control them will be next to zero. No matter what color you are trying to match, you will end up with a chalky (the white pigment) layer of paint.
The reason you can't find the pigments is because they don't put them on the jar of paint. This is generally a bad sign with regards to artist quality paints because they are essentially saying that they know you don't care what's in the paint. And, with AA that is true most of the time. People want to paint something orange and they buy the orange that is closest to what they want. For people like you, who need very very specific colors and layer, they aren't going to cut it.
I recommend finding a line of paints that does say what pigments are in them. You'll be able to control them a lot more and should be a lot happier with the results. Avoid any color that has Zinc White (PW4) and Titanium White (PW6). I always say that if I wanted white in my paint, I'd add it when I need to. In fact, I use nothing but single pigment paints. Of course, it takes time to learn how a palette works, but the control is the issue and you should be happier with them.
6 Primaries is a really good way to work.
The best way to get started is to make sure you have:
Red 1 - Leans towards Violet
Red 2 - Leans towards Orange
Yellow 1 - Leans towards Orange
Yellow 2 - Leans towards Green
Blue 1 - Leans towards Violet
Blue 2 - Leans towards Green
White 1 - Titanium White used sparingly.
I also like to make sure that 1 of each color is highly transparent and 1 in semi-opaque or translucent. That seems to be the palette that give you the best chance for success right away. This is more of a fine art arrangement, but it's a guide I guess.
I'm curious what other people use. Right now for painting cards I use:
Titanium White - Heavy Body Acrylics
Carbon Black - Airbrush Acrylics
Burnt Sienna - Heavy Body Acrylics
Yellow Ochre - Heavy Body Acrylics
Pthalo Blue R.S. - Airbrush Acrylics
and occasionally...
Quinacridone Burnt Orange - Heavy Body Acrylics
Pthalo Green Y.S. - Airbrush Acrylics
Cadmium Orange - Heavy Body Acrylics
Quinacridone Magenta - Heavy Body Acrylics
That seems to match most of the cards I have had to do. Daarken's cards are nuts. I can usually finish one with Black, White, Ochre, Burnt Sienna, that's it.
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.