Hey what's up everyone I am new to the forum and just bought this awesome card for my cube. I bought it from my local card shop and am incredibly happy. There is the small percent of me that is still hesitant about the legitimacy of this card, and I say this not to challenge the store to say that they don't know what they're talking about but to triple assure myself. I have included some images and also a link to my video online about it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRHUcr-MF7I
Your card shop is *extremely* unlikely to have come into possession of a forgery. Stores (or more specifically, the employees they allow to buy Power and other super high $$$ cards) are usually very, very knowledgeable of how to detect fakes.
As for the light test - didn't the Chinese fakes pass that (although they were detectable by touch or precise measurement of weight)?
Your card shop is *extremely* unlikely to have come into possession of a forgery. Stores (or more specifically, the employees they allow to buy Power and other super high $$$ cards) are usually very, very knowledgeable of how to detect fakes.
As for the light test - didn't the Chinese fakes pass that (although they were detectable by touch or precise measurement of weight)?
Negative, the Chinese fakes failed the light test. I believe they passed the Bend Test though.
As for the card pictured, I'd say it looks real. One of the bigger tells for power being fake is being in too good of a condition. It's hard to fake authentic play wear.
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I always thought the easiest way to tell a fake is to look for the blue line. Strange how that article doesn't mention it.
A frequent fake is real cards erased and reprinted. Such cards will pass the bend test and will have a blue line.
The article did mention it, under re-backed cards. However I also wanted to point out that this thread is is pretty old but the information is still useful.
Re-backed is different than printed over and possibly harder to notices. It is the front and the back of two cards glued together. Only seen for Alpha/Beta cards.
Re-backed is different than printed over and possibly harder to notices. It is the front and the back of two cards glued together. Only seen for Alpha/Beta cards.
Yes, I'm aware. Sorry I was tired. I was actually replying to Sirgin's comment of the article not mentioning the blue line, which it does on the page about re-backs. You're correct though about printed over cards. You really want a loupe to identify those. I feel like was should let this topic die again though. It's really old. The OP has had a year to inspect his card. I'd say if we want to discuss counterfeit detection in general a new topic should be opened.
You are effectively "rebacking" or gluing two magic cards together. I bought a rebacked underground sea and returned it when the light test revealed it was an obvious fake.
At this point I have come up with many more tests than the ones mentioned on apathyhouse. Unfortunately all of these were learned from experience in my question to obtain the power nine.
Sellers peddling fake wares were everywhere. If you don't want to invest the time become a personal expert on magic forgeries, simply buy from a reputable seller. It will cost you a little more, but you'll save yourself a lot of headache.
Moreover, I mentioned the light test because out of the myriad of tests I've uncovered, the only one I have seen uncovering the truth for me in the end has been the light test.
But in my opinion the light test isn't that easy to administer. There is a good amount of variation in the blue grain through the card. Not all moxes pass the same amount of light. So you have to "ballpark" it.
To really be able to do the light test properly to account for all the normal variation in real stock, you have to perform the test many times. I guarantee you if you have 10 real mox sapphires, they're not all going to look the same when you do the light test on them.
At any rate, one point ive made to others before is to test the card with physical characteristics. You wouldnt believe how many times counterfeiters get SOMETHING wrong with the physical attributes of the card.
examples include:
--the artist name is mispelled
--wrong copyright date
--mana symbol is wrong
--typo in the text description
--wrong or missing flavor text
--font is wrong
--words that should be in bold are regular fonted
--the card is smaller than a real magic card
--the card is thinner, lighter than a real magic card
--the card isnt glossy where it should be
--the card is TOO glossy
--the card is too stiff/not stiff enough/too thin
--corners arent cut right
--the ink fades under water
--the ink fades under hand wear
--the black is too black,
--colors are too rich/washed out, or the color scheme is off entirely.
--the card wears out more easily.
there's really no end to physical imperfections that counterfeiters consistently seem to make.
It's good to be aware of all these so you can tell whether the card is counterfeit right then and there when you buy the card.
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The light test.
The Light Test?
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The light test.
Also, that entire entry is worth reading. Start here.
Thank you for that article.
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A frequent fake is real cards erased and reprinted. Such cards will pass the bend test and will have a blue line.
As for the light test - didn't the Chinese fakes pass that (although they were detectable by touch or precise measurement of weight)?
Negative, the Chinese fakes failed the light test. I believe they passed the Bend Test though.
As for the card pictured, I'd say it looks real. One of the bigger tells for power being fake is being in too good of a condition. It's hard to fake authentic play wear.
Currently Playing:
Legacy: Something U/W Controlish
EDH Cube
Hypercube! A New EDH Deck Every Week(ish)!
The article did mention it, under re-backed cards. However I also wanted to point out that this thread is is pretty old but the information is still useful.
Yes, I'm aware. Sorry I was tired. I was actually replying to Sirgin's comment of the article not mentioning the blue line, which it does on the page about re-backs. You're correct though about printed over cards. You really want a loupe to identify those. I feel like was should let this topic die again though. It's really old. The OP has had a year to inspect his card. I'd say if we want to discuss counterfeit detection in general a new topic should be opened.
You are effectively "rebacking" or gluing two magic cards together. I bought a rebacked underground sea and returned it when the light test revealed it was an obvious fake.
At this point I have come up with many more tests than the ones mentioned on apathyhouse. Unfortunately all of these were learned from experience in my question to obtain the power nine.
Sellers peddling fake wares were everywhere. If you don't want to invest the time become a personal expert on magic forgeries, simply buy from a reputable seller. It will cost you a little more, but you'll save yourself a lot of headache.
Moreover, I mentioned the light test because out of the myriad of tests I've uncovered, the only one I have seen uncovering the truth for me in the end has been the light test.
But in my opinion the light test isn't that easy to administer. There is a good amount of variation in the blue grain through the card. Not all moxes pass the same amount of light. So you have to "ballpark" it.
To really be able to do the light test properly to account for all the normal variation in real stock, you have to perform the test many times. I guarantee you if you have 10 real mox sapphires, they're not all going to look the same when you do the light test on them.
At any rate, one point ive made to others before is to test the card with physical characteristics. You wouldnt believe how many times counterfeiters get SOMETHING wrong with the physical attributes of the card.
examples include:
--the artist name is mispelled
--wrong copyright date
--mana symbol is wrong
--typo in the text description
--wrong or missing flavor text
--font is wrong
--words that should be in bold are regular fonted
--the card is smaller than a real magic card
--the card is thinner, lighter than a real magic card
--the card isnt glossy where it should be
--the card is TOO glossy
--the card is too stiff/not stiff enough/too thin
--corners arent cut right
--the ink fades under water
--the ink fades under hand wear
--the black is too black,
--colors are too rich/washed out, or the color scheme is off entirely.
--the card wears out more easily.
there's really no end to physical imperfections that counterfeiters consistently seem to make.
It's good to be aware of all these so you can tell whether the card is counterfeit right then and there when you buy the card.
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Legacy: Lands.
Modern: Lantern.