For the curious, I used sandpaper, then printed a template right on to the card. It took a while to perfect, but obviously the result was worth it.
By and large, they only allow sharpie with the full text of the card written on to it. For cards with long rules texts (such as Old Man of the Sea) you might just print out the full text on a slip of paper or something. I have used the proxies below in tournament play before, but I generally don't nowadays for whatever reason. That being said, I think I'm going to just run them at the next tournament; nobody will say anything. (note, I'm not cheating with them, so don't construe it that way. :P)
very very hot. i want some badly. one question, no time twister?
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Current Fallen Angel (Anson Maddocks art) Count:449!!!
very very hot. i want some badly. one question, no time twister?
I have the template for Timetwister, but never made it because 1) I wasn't using Timetwister at the time and 2) I had an actual Timetwister
That being said, I intend to make a playset of Mana Drains, Grim Tutors, Library of Alexandria, and Imperial Seal, all using the new card face (and using MTG Set Editor to do it).
I have the template for Timetwister, but never made it because 1) I wasn't using Timetwister at the time and 2) I had an actual Timetwister
That being said, I intend to make a playset of Mana Drains, Grim Tutors, Library of Alexandria, and Imperial Seal, all using the new card face (and using MTG Set Editor to do it).
well that explains it so let me get this straight, you use sand paper to remove the picture and then print directly onto the card its self? care to elaborate a tiny bit (or alot) more here? id really like to pimpify those sinkhole and blaze of glory proxies i have.
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Current Fallen Angel (Anson Maddocks art) Count:449!!!
well that explains it so let me get this straight, you use sand paper to remove the picture and then print directly onto the card its self? care to elaborate a tiny bit (or alot) more here? id really like to pimpify those sinkhole and blaze of glory proxies i have.
Yes, I printed directly on the card.
Ok, here is the whole deal:
I used 220 grit sandpaper to sand off the entire face of the card. I tried using finer sandpaper, but the ink would not stick to the card face after I tried printing on it. I then took a normal 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper and printed a "draft" version of the card image on to the sheet of paper. Then, I taped the card on to the sheet so that the image would be properly centered on the card. I then printed the image again, this time with "high quality" or something (although I seem to recall using slightly lower quality printing and still getting a result just as good) and then let the ink dry overnight or so. You should let the card dry right on the sheet of paper; trying to remove it will result in smearing the ink. Note: it is VERY IMPORTANT that the paper tray on your printer be very tight relative to the sheet of paper when you print; otherwise, the card could be printed off center ever so slightly, resulting in a much worse proxy.
Regarding the actual images of the cards, I received the template from somebody three years ago; I did not make the template myself. I will not post that template here, for various reasons. Note that the moxen have gray mana symbols; this is because they are from the Mirrodin age. Nowadays, you can make whatever cards you want using MTG Set Editor.
Regarding whether these proxies would be tournament legal for an unsanctioned tournament, that's between you and your head judge/tournament director. These cards might be slightly thinner because of the sanding, but I honestly can't tell the difference myself. Additionally, I think your opponents will actually appreciate the proxies because they have the actual card image as well as text.
If you have any further questions I can try to answer them.
For anyone interested I have been messing around with all the suggestions in this thread. I've found that I like removing the ink with acetone and then using Yare's method of making the card on MSE and then copying the picture to Word. You can then reduce the size to 2.5x3.5 in and print to a piece of paper. Then use double sided tape to tape the card to the paper on the edges and run the card through, it may take a while to dry, but the results are great.
If you can get your hands on the Power 10 that was made by a random company I can't remember. It looks nothing like magic cards but has the exact same size and looks great. They are only 1-2 bucks a piece and are way better then nearly any other form of easy proxy without going into extremely lifelike which would be sorta illegal.
Another great way to make proxies is with the gold-bordered blank cards you get with the world's decks.
I used 220 grit sandpaper to sand off the entire face of the card. I tried using finer sandpaper, but the ink would not stick to the card face after I tried printing on it. I then took a normal 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper and printed a "draft" version of the card image on to the sheet of paper. Then, I taped the card on to the sheet so that the image would be properly centered on the card. I then printed the image again, this time with "high quality" or something (although I seem to recall using slightly lower quality printing and still getting a result just as good) and then let the ink dry overnight or so. You should let the card dry right on the sheet of paper; trying to remove it will result in smearing the ink. Note: it is VERY IMPORTANT that the paper tray on your printer be very tight relative to the sheet of paper when you print; otherwise, the card could be printed off center ever so slightly, resulting in a much worse proxy.
Regarding the actual images of the cards, I received the template from somebody three years ago; I did not make the template myself. I will not post that template here, for various reasons. Note that the moxen have gray mana symbols; this is because they are from the Mirrodin age. Nowadays, you can make whatever cards you want using MTG Set Editor.
What printer did you use?
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Gaily bedight,
A gallant knight,
In sunshine and in shadow,
Had journeyed long,
Singing a song,
In search of Eldorado.
I used a Canon S330. I have no idea if you can still buy them (or if you even want to). I suppose printers that turn the pages completely over (and therefore bending them) might give you trouble in using this procedure.
When I make proxies, I don't want them to look exactly like the real cards (I'm not trying to counterfeit them or anything). But I don't like writing on my cards (which I used to do). For a while I'd just print out the text, cut it out and slide it into a sleeve with another card facing backwards.
Then I stumbled upon using a copy machine. It's B&W so it's obviously not real, but it's the easiest method I found. It's only contingent on having at least 1 copy of the card you wanna proxy. Slide the copy into a sleeve w/ another card and you've got an easy proxy.
If I don't have the cards, I'll print out a low res B&W image from the web.
I used a Canon S330. I have no idea if you can still buy them (or if you even want to). I suppose printers that turn the pages completely over (and therefore bending them) might give you trouble in using this procedure.
Thanks for this information. my printer is similar so i might experiment.
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Gaily bedight,
A gallant knight,
In sunshine and in shadow,
Had journeyed long,
Singing a song,
In search of Eldorado.
fantastic guys. I've been trying some things of my own, but I like some of the stuff posted here more than my own results.
Edit: I've been trying the Nail Polish Remover/Acetone method of removing the front but I keep ruining the card. It eventually soaks through the initial smooth surface and begins to discolor the fibers underneath. Anybody have suggestions on how to avoid this? I've already made some proxies with the sandpaper method, but the alchohol/chemical method looks like it should clean up the front a lot better than the sandpaper.
For anyone interested I have been messing around with all the suggestions in this thread. I've found that I like removing the ink with acetone and then using Yare's method of making the card on MSE and then copying the picture to Word. You can then reduce the size to 2.5x3.5 in and print to a piece of paper. Then use double sided tape to tape the card to the paper on the edges and run the card through, it may take a while to dry, but the results are great.
How do you copy the card off of MSE?
You already edited your post once, why not again? Double-post Warning issued.
RG Playing undercosted burn and over-powered creatures since 1994. RG
"I finally figured out what One With Nothing is good for!" says Paul. "Oh yeah? What?" comes the reply. "It comboes with Tarmogoyf!"
True story...
Edit: I've been trying the Nail Polish Remover/Acetone method of removing the front but I keep ruining the card. It eventually soaks through the initial smooth surface and begins to discolor the fibers underneath. Anybody have suggestions on how to avoid this? I've already made some proxies with the sandpaper method, but the alchohol/chemical method looks like it should clean up the front a lot better than the sandpaper.
Perhaps the nail polish remover you are using has water in it. It's the water that warps the paper. I've been using Acetone, and haven't had any problems.
Quote from Jenkins »
How do you copy the card off of MSE?
In MSE 2 you can go to File > Export > Card Image. You could probably also just do ctrl + Print screen
I can say that if you use lighter grade sandpaper, you'll end up with a completely smooth and glossy cardface. Unfortunately...you won't be able to print anything on it. The tearing up of the face is what enables the ink to stick and makes it look so good.
Now, the new post:
In making these cards again for the first time in a while, I've (re)discovered a few more tricks that I didn't mention earlier. Initially when you're sanding, you want to be doing it fairly hard so you're bringing up colored dust. If you do it too hard, though, you'll scratch the card more than you want to, and the scratches may show up on your final product. So, once you're done removing all of the ink, you should sand much more lightly from left to right so that you're bringing up white dust (that is, the card backing). This will make the printing much more even and work out a few of those scratches.
Next, tape the card on to the sheet with doubled over scotch tape on the four corners. This keeps the card flat against the sheet so it won't get caught in the workings of the printer. Along these lines, somehow the position of my images got changed from the center to the side since the last time I did this. Consequently, the card was going between two wheels this time, causing all kinds of jamming issues. Try to have the card avoid wheels that keep the paper tight, as it will jam the printer.
Finally, brush off your cards after you tape them with a kleenex or similar so that most of the dust is removed. This will improve your final product.
For the curious, these five Grim Tutors have caused me to have "low black ink" with what I thought was a fairly new cartridge. Consequently, this can get costly if you make too many or if you make too many mistakes (the second one got jammed because of the aforementioned wheel problem, so the bottom is extra dark due to the printing error). Honestly, I should have just thrown this one out and just accepted my loss.
-Basic land and sharpie
-Photocopy with color photocopier
-Print with color printer
-Draw my own card
Of the four, the photocopier ones look the best but drawing my own is a heck of alot more fun. The color printer ones usually look pretty washed out. The basic land ones are boring.
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Dwarves and gnomes should take the cool goblin jobs. Goblins have been getting too much love!
very very hot. i want some badly. one question, no time twister?
I have the template for Timetwister, but never made it because 1) I wasn't using Timetwister at the time and 2) I had an actual Timetwister
That being said, I intend to make a playset of Mana Drains, Grim Tutors, Library of Alexandria, and Imperial Seal, all using the new card face (and using MTG Set Editor to do it).
Magic Rules Advisor
How Creatures Die
Targets | Triggered Abilities | Priority and the Stack | Older Articles
well that explains it so let me get this straight, you use sand paper to remove the picture and then print directly onto the card its self? care to elaborate a tiny bit (or alot) more here? id really like to pimpify those sinkhole and blaze of glory proxies i have.
Yes, I printed directly on the card.
Ok, here is the whole deal:
I used 220 grit sandpaper to sand off the entire face of the card. I tried using finer sandpaper, but the ink would not stick to the card face after I tried printing on it. I then took a normal 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper and printed a "draft" version of the card image on to the sheet of paper. Then, I taped the card on to the sheet so that the image would be properly centered on the card. I then printed the image again, this time with "high quality" or something (although I seem to recall using slightly lower quality printing and still getting a result just as good) and then let the ink dry overnight or so. You should let the card dry right on the sheet of paper; trying to remove it will result in smearing the ink. Note: it is VERY IMPORTANT that the paper tray on your printer be very tight relative to the sheet of paper when you print; otherwise, the card could be printed off center ever so slightly, resulting in a much worse proxy.
Regarding the actual images of the cards, I received the template from somebody three years ago; I did not make the template myself. I will not post that template here, for various reasons. Note that the moxen have gray mana symbols; this is because they are from the Mirrodin age. Nowadays, you can make whatever cards you want using MTG Set Editor.
Regarding whether these proxies would be tournament legal for an unsanctioned tournament, that's between you and your head judge/tournament director. These cards might be slightly thinner because of the sanding, but I honestly can't tell the difference myself. Additionally, I think your opponents will actually appreciate the proxies because they have the actual card image as well as text.
If you have any further questions I can try to answer them.
Magic Rules Advisor
How Creatures Die
Targets | Triggered Abilities | Priority and the Stack | Older Articles
http://mkipps.blogspot.com/
Another great way to make proxies is with the gold-bordered blank cards you get with the world's decks.
Feel free to bid on my cards here!
What printer did you use?
A gallant knight,
In sunshine and in shadow,
Had journeyed long,
Singing a song,
In search of Eldorado.
I used a Canon S330. I have no idea if you can still buy them (or if you even want to). I suppose printers that turn the pages completely over (and therefore bending them) might give you trouble in using this procedure.
Magic Rules Advisor
How Creatures Die
Targets | Triggered Abilities | Priority and the Stack | Older Articles
Then I stumbled upon using a copy machine. It's B&W so it's obviously not real, but it's the easiest method I found. It's only contingent on having at least 1 copy of the card you wanna proxy. Slide the copy into a sleeve w/ another card and you've got an easy proxy.
If I don't have the cards, I'll print out a low res B&W image from the web.
Co-Host, In Contention Podcast / Yo! MTG Taps! Podcast
In Contention
Yo! MTG Taps!
Twitter.com/AffinityForBlue
Thanks for this information. my printer is similar so i might experiment.
A gallant knight,
In sunshine and in shadow,
Had journeyed long,
Singing a song,
In search of Eldorado.
Edit: I've been trying the Nail Polish Remover/Acetone method of removing the front but I keep ruining the card. It eventually soaks through the initial smooth surface and begins to discolor the fibers underneath. Anybody have suggestions on how to avoid this? I've already made some proxies with the sandpaper method, but the alchohol/chemical method looks like it should clean up the front a lot better than the sandpaper.
How do you copy the card off of MSE?
You already edited your post once, why not again? Double-post Warning issued.
RG Playing undercosted burn and over-powered creatures since 1994. RG
"I finally figured out what One With Nothing is good for!" says Paul. "Oh yeah? What?" comes the reply. "It comboes with Tarmogoyf!"
True story...
Perhaps the nail polish remover you are using has water in it. It's the water that warps the paper. I've been using Acetone, and haven't had any problems.
In MSE 2 you can go to File > Export > Card Image. You could probably also just do ctrl + Print screen
Hooray...first post
Standard: :symw::symub:Esper Highlander:symub::symw:
EDH: Korlash, Heir to Blackblade Edric, Spymaster of Trest
Now, the new post:
In making these cards again for the first time in a while, I've (re)discovered a few more tricks that I didn't mention earlier. Initially when you're sanding, you want to be doing it fairly hard so you're bringing up colored dust. If you do it too hard, though, you'll scratch the card more than you want to, and the scratches may show up on your final product. So, once you're done removing all of the ink, you should sand much more lightly from left to right so that you're bringing up white dust (that is, the card backing). This will make the printing much more even and work out a few of those scratches.
Next, tape the card on to the sheet with doubled over scotch tape on the four corners. This keeps the card flat against the sheet so it won't get caught in the workings of the printer. Along these lines, somehow the position of my images got changed from the center to the side since the last time I did this. Consequently, the card was going between two wheels this time, causing all kinds of jamming issues. Try to have the card avoid wheels that keep the paper tight, as it will jam the printer.
Finally, brush off your cards after you tape them with a kleenex or similar so that most of the dust is removed. This will improve your final product.
For the curious, these five Grim Tutors have caused me to have "low black ink" with what I thought was a fairly new cartridge. Consequently, this can get costly if you make too many or if you make too many mistakes (the second one got jammed because of the aforementioned wheel problem, so the bottom is extra dark due to the printing error). Honestly, I should have just thrown this one out and just accepted my loss.
Here are some of my latest creations:
Magic Rules Advisor
How Creatures Die
Targets | Triggered Abilities | Priority and the Stack | Older Articles
-Basic land and sharpie
-Photocopy with color photocopier
-Print with color printer
-Draw my own card
Of the four, the photocopier ones look the best but drawing my own is a heck of alot more fun. The color printer ones usually look pretty washed out. The basic land ones are boring.