If I have a card that's been altered, but the alter sort of sucks, is there a way to remove the alter while doing minimal damage to the card?
The alter was done with golden acrylic paint.
You will need some type of solvent that has no water in at all other wise it will cause water damage to the card. Further, the solvent also need to be gentle to the ink used to print the cards. Acetone will not work as it will also take the ink off the card. Isopropyl alcohol will work, but it needs to be 99% otherwise it will be diluted with water. The water can damage the card. Denatured Alcohol doesn't have water and is stronger than Isopropyl alchohol, but it can take ink off the card if your not careful. Then take a cotton swap and dampening it with the solvent and gently rub till the card is exposed beneath the paint.
Oh man, this is pretty risky business. The artist could have used a good primer which will make it a bit more difficult. My advice would be to paint over the alter rather than trying to remove it, depending on the card's value.
From a layman perspective, It would depend on what preparation work they did before altering, if they put a clear coat over the top, and what you want the end result to be.
It will probably be nearly impossible to return the card to its original condition, the best hope you have is to have it re-altered to be more appealing.
Here's the card in question. (I just bought it so I don't have it in hand yet)
I considered getting it re-altered, although with the hand thing over the top of the seal (and it looks like the seal itself has been altered too, to some extent) it really limits the options. The paint on the text box could also be a problem.
I'm not sure what the original condition of the card is, but I got a pretty great deal on it compared to other english imperial seals, so even if it turns out MP I'd still be fairly pleased. I contacted the seller to find out if he knows anything about the prep/post work or the condition of the card. Needless to say if I try to remove it, I'll test-run my paint removal methods on something worthless first. And if it's easier, my goal might be to simply get it to a place where it could be re-altered to something better, rather than completely cleaning it off.
It's not the worst alter I've ever seen, but it's not really befitting the (2nd?) most expensive card in my collection.
I would be careful with a card of such high value. Do some testing with some solvents and paint on craps commons till you find a method that works well. The paint will come off with solvent and cotton swabs, but like I said you need to be careful. Even if the card is sealed a solvent will still break down the clear coat or what ever is on it. I have used acetone to strip the ink off foils to make foil proxies, and have used denatured alcohol to take dirt and grime and even some paint off the white border on cards, but you have to be careful not rub hard on think ink of the card or else it may smudge or come off. The main thing would be to wipe lightly till the paint is basically gone, but leaving the ink untouched on the card. A too strong of a solvent can also be used to deink the card which is not what you want. So select a solvent just strong enough to remove the paint layer by layer. It will be time consuming process to do right.
I would be careful with a card of such high value. Do some testing with some solvents and paint on craps commons till you find a method that works well. The paint will come off with solvent and cotton swabs, but like I said you need to be careful. Even if the card is sealed a solvent will still break down the clear coat or what ever is on it. I have used acetone to strip the ink off foils to make foil proxies, and have used denatured alcohol to take dirt and grime and even some paint off the white border on cards, but you have to be careful not rub hard on think ink of the card or else it may smudge or come off. The main thing would be to wipe lightly till the paint is basically gone, but leaving the ink untouched on the card. A too strong of a solvent can also be used to deink the card which is not what you want. So select a solvent just strong enough to remove the paint layer by layer. It will be time consuming process to do right.
Thanks for the help. I was planning on doing some test runs with junk cards. Isn't it going to be difficult to stop the solvent from reacting once it's done though? I mean, after I rub the paint off there's still going to be some residue from the solvent left on the card, should I wipe it off afterwards to prevent the solvent from doing further damage to the card? Will that be enough?
From your first reply it sounds like isopropyl alcohol is the way to go? Obviously I'd prefer to err on the side of safety, so whatever the weakest, safest solvent is that has the least chance of damaging the card would be my preference.
I would be careful with a card of such high value. Do some testing with some solvents and paint on craps commons till you find a method that works well. The paint will come off with solvent and cotton swabs, but like I said you need to be careful. Even if the card is sealed a solvent will still break down the clear coat or what ever is on it. I have used acetone to strip the ink off foils to make foil proxies, and have used denatured alcohol to take dirt and grime and even some paint off the white border on cards, but you have to be careful not rub hard on think ink of the card or else it may smudge or come off. The main thing would be to wipe lightly till the paint is basically gone, but leaving the ink untouched on the card. A too strong of a solvent can also be used to deink the card which is not what you want. So select a solvent just strong enough to remove the paint layer by layer. It will be time consuming process to do right.
Thanks for the help. I was planning on doing some test runs with junk cards. Isn't it going to be difficult to stop the solvent from reacting once it's done though? I mean, after I rub the paint off there's still going to be some residue from the solvent left on the card, should I wipe it off afterwards to prevent the solvent from doing further damage to the card? Will that be enough?
From your first reply it sounds like isopropyl alcohol is the way to go? Obviously I'd prefer to err on the side of safety, so whatever the weakest, safest solvent is that has the least chance of damaging the card would be my preference.
Regarding your first question, the solvent will evaporate no need to wipe it off. While isopropyl alcohol will take off acrylic paint, you need 99% pure isopropyl alcohol, even then there is likely to be some water in the solution so be carful when working at the cards edge other wise the cardboard may swell up. Mainly make sure your cotton swap/pad is damp to slightly wet, but not dripping wet with whatever solvent you use. There is also the fact that isopropyl alcohol being a weaker solvent compared to the other solvents may mean applying more pressure to the card or taking more time to take the paint off.
I'm going to try to swing by an art supply store sometime this week to pick up paint and hopefully paint thinner, so I'll ask them if they've got any recommendations too.
Uh... no. Paint thinner won't break down cured Acrylic paint. The only things that will are so volatile that they will eat right through the card. There is a small window where you can clean acrylic with water but once it has cured (oxidized) you can't really work with it without just chipping it away. I looked at the other cards by that seller and they look like they know the process to make good quality alters - flat paint job with a decent sealant. You plucked the card off ebay for $400 and if you try to remove the alter you're going to throw that money away. It may not be your style of alter, but there is nothing inherently wrong with it. If you destroy your card - which you probably will with solvents - there will be something wrong with it and nobody will want to buy it. Your best bet in my opinion is to hold onto it for a while, try to sell it for $500 and use that to buy one you like.
Seriously, unless you want to waste money don't screw with this card.
Uh... no. Paint thinner won't break down cured Acrylic paint. The only things that will are so volatile that they will eat right through the card. There is a small window where you can clean acrylic with water but once it has cured (oxidized) you can't really work with it without just chipping it away. I looked at the other cards by that seller and they look like they know the processcarful to make good quality alters - flat paint job with a decent sealant. You plucked the card off ebay for $400 and if you try to remove the alter you're going to throw that money away. It may not be your style of alter, but there is nothing inherently wrong with it. If you destroy your card - which you probably will with solvents - there will be something wrong with it and nobody will want to buy it. Your best bet in my opinion is to hold onto it for a while, try to sell it for $500 and use that to buy one you like.
Seriously, unless you want to waste money don't screw with this card.
Unless we talking about solvents that are used for removing enamel based or epoxy based or similar based paints it won't eat a hole through his card. I have used both isopropyl alchol and denatured alcohol on cards I personally own. Acrylic paint once the water evaporates from the paint is no longer water soluble and while difficult to remove it can be removed. I know acetone is an effective solvent for acrylic paint, but it also lifts the ink off the card since I have used it to blank foils to make foil proxies. The problem will likely also be the same for other ketone based solvents. I have also played with toluene to blank foils, but it some times leaves the foil layer foggy. However, it again can take the ink off the card. I have used isopropyl alcohol and denatured alcohol to clean cards. Denatured alcohol can lift ink if you let it sit and agitate the ink before it evaporates however its much weaker than the others solvents and if carefully applied should be able to remove the paint and still leave the ink on the card untouched. My only experience with paint was a small paint splatter on a tarmogoyf that a friend of mine had. The denatured alcohol took the paint off his card, and the only noticeable effect was the card was not as shiny where the paint was. Isopropyl alcohol even weaker yet would probably work best on fresh paint, but it still can remove paint, and it also does not effect the ink on a card as much. It would even be slower and more time consuming.
Here are some cards that I personally owned that I cleaned the borders with denatured alcohol, and the face/art with isopropyl alcohol I don't see any holes my cards.
Now after
-edit-
I will say part of the reason why this is difficult is acrylic paint tends have a polymer base suspend in water or an emulsified solution. When the water evaporates what is left behind is the polymer base. Polymers also used in most modern day inks so most solvents that effect acrylic paint also effect ink.
Oh yeah. Cleaning a card with a lightly dampened rag is fine. Water or Alcohol are fine. Alcohol breaks up grease/gunk better but isn't needed in most case. It won't take Acrylic off (I've tried). The Xylene, Acetone, Boat lacquer thinners that WILL remove the acrylic are the ones I'm worried about. Those will eat the ink underneath as well as the paint AND if even a little bit hits the edges it will capillary into the layers of cardboard and start to separate the layers of paper (I've tried).
It sounds like the Tarmogoyf paint you removed was as much physics as chemistry. Small spots of paint can be removed with water, so a little alcohol wouldn't hurt. But, a good application of paint like this one will be hard to do anything with especially since it's totally cured.
I have cleaned and stripped a bunch of cards in my time. I have painted a lot too. It's this experience that tells me you aren't going to get enough paint off to make it worth it.
Uh... no. Paint thinner won't break down cured Acrylic paint. The only things that will are so volatile that they will eat right through the card. There is a small window where you can clean acrylic with water but once it has cured (oxidized) you can't really work with it without just chipping it away. I looked at the other cards by that seller and they look like they know the process to make good quality alters - flat paint job with a decent sealant. You plucked the card off ebay for $400 and if you try to remove the alter you're going to throw that money away. It may not be your style of alter, but there is nothing inherently wrong with it. If you destroy your card - which you probably will with solvents - there will be something wrong with it and nobody will want to buy it. Your best bet in my opinion is to hold onto it for a while, try to sell it for $500 and use that to buy one you like.
Seriously, unless you want to waste money don't screw with this card.
Hmm, well that's unfortunate. What would be the best way to figure out for sure? Is there any tracking through scg for this sort of thing?
Assuming it's not stolen, I'm thinking maybe I should just send it to Klug alters and see what he can do with it. I know he's got plenty of experience with altering over other, bad alters and I'm sure he can think of something awesome. But I should probably see what it actually looks like first.
I don't remember all the details. I thought there might have been people filing charges but I'd dealt with the guy a few times while I was here on staff and was pretty much over him by the time this came up. Eric should be able to fix that up for you for sure. Brian did good enough paint jobs that I wouldn't be too worried about being able to cover them up without more than a little bit of additional build up.
Oh yeah. Cleaning a card with a lightly dampened rag is fine. Water or Alcohol are fine. Alcohol breaks up grease/gunk better but isn't needed in most case. It won't take Acrylic off (I've tried). The Xylene, Acetone, Boat lacquer thinners that WILL remove the acrylic are the ones I'm worried about. Those will eat the ink underneath as well as the paint AND if even a little bit hits the edges it will capillary into the layers of cardboard and start to separate the layers of paper (I've tried).
It sounds like the Tarmogoyf paint you removed was as much physics as chemistry. Small spots of paint can be removed with water, so a little alcohol wouldn't hurt. But, a good application of paint like this one will be hard to do anything with especially since it's totally cured.
I have cleaned and stripped a bunch of cards in my time. I have painted a lot too. It's this experience that tells me you aren't going to get enough paint off to make it worth it.
What percentage was the isopropyl have you used? The polymer based acrylic paint is water resistant unless there is almost no in water in the alcohol solution, the alcohol will have a hard time soaking into the paint to dissolve it due to that water resistance. There also different types of alcohol based of ethyl or methyl groups ect.
Whatever the crap I use to clean my garbage disposal and orchids is and the 99% from the pharmacist. Neither worked. Once an acrylic polymer completely cure (oxidizes) it's impervious to water. It's a plastic shell and permanent. Some *****ty paints never fully cure, but Golden's do.
Well this thread made me curious so I did some experimenting. Winsor & Newton brush cleaner takes the paint right off, but also can take ink off if your not careful. At best you have no paint on the card, but it looks washed out in some spots. I think its doable and definitely if you plan re altering the card. At least you could make the paint thinner on the card making additional alter work less noticeable. It just gets question able the closer you get the ink layer. I take a very lightly damp cotton pad dab lightly with a slight twist at the point I try lifting the paint from. The only issue I see is it makes the coloring of the ink look lighter or more washed out if I apply to much pressure on the spot. There were some spots that I took the paint off and it looked fine, but its not consistent. Its a very fine line between too much and just right. Considering the fact so much of the card is painted it would very hard to do just from my experimenting but a small area like the hand on the seal might be doable. The borders would be easy too since they are white. Black also is more forgiving of the solvent and is less likely to look washed out. Most the card is black so I am not sure what the results would be. Its the art and its lighter spots beneath the paint that would worry me.
No considering the card it was in a collection I bought I don't know anything about who did the alter and what paint was used. I will say there was like a clear acrylic applied on the card beneath all the pigmented paint that made life a little easier but still it was very thin so it was possible to some time wash the ink out. I almost didn't notice it.
As longer as paint stands sticked to a card, as harder becomes to remove it. Also, if the guy used oil médium to créate color transitions (highly probable), it's pretty imposible to remove the pigments from the original painting layer of the card. Just try to find the "boyfriend" for that alter and move it on to buy other stuff. I wouldn't even try to un-alter that money piece.
The alter was done with golden acrylic paint.
EDH Primers
Phelddagrif - Zirilan
EDH
Thrasios+Bruse - Pang - Sasaya - Wydwen - Feather - Rona - Toshiro - Sylvia+Khorvath - Geth - QMarchesa - Firesong - Athreos - Arixmethes - Isperia - Etali - Silas+Sidar - Saskia - Virtus+Gorm - Kynaios - Naban - Aryel - Mizzix - Kazuul - Tymna+Kraum - Sidar+Tymna - Ayli - Gwendlyn - Phelddagrif 4 - Liliana - Kaervek - Phelddagrif 3 - Mairsil - Scarab - Child - Phenax - Shirei - Thada - Depala - Circu - Kytheon - GrenzoHR - Phelddagrif - Reyhan+Kraum - Toshiro - Varolz - Nin - Ojutai - Tasigur - Zedruu - Uril - Edric - Wort - Zurgo - Nahiri - Grenzo - Kozilek - Yisan - Ink-Treader - Yisan - Brago - Sidisi - Toshiro - Alexi - Sygg - Brimaz - Sek'Kuar - Marchesa - Vish Kal - Iroas - Phelddagrif - Ephara - Derevi - Glissa - Wanderer - Saffi - Melek - Xiahou Dun - Lazav - Lin Sivvi - Zirilan - Glissa
PDH - Drake - Graverobber - Izzet GM - Tallowisp - Symbiote Brawl - Feather - Ugin - Jace - Scarab - Angrath - Vraska - Kumena Oathbreaker - Wrenn&6
You will need some type of solvent that has no water in at all other wise it will cause water damage to the card. Further, the solvent also need to be gentle to the ink used to print the cards. Acetone will not work as it will also take the ink off the card. Isopropyl alcohol will work, but it needs to be 99% otherwise it will be diluted with water. The water can damage the card. Denatured Alcohol doesn't have water and is stronger than Isopropyl alchohol, but it can take ink off the card if your not careful. Then take a cotton swap and dampening it with the solvent and gently rub till the card is exposed beneath the paint.
I loathe creatures! Praise Prison and Land Destruction!
My Peasant Cube (looking for feedback)
From a layman perspective, It would depend on what preparation work they did before altering, if they put a clear coat over the top, and what you want the end result to be.
It will probably be nearly impossible to return the card to its original condition, the best hope you have is to have it re-altered to be more appealing.
Here's the card in question. (I just bought it so I don't have it in hand yet)
I considered getting it re-altered, although with the hand thing over the top of the seal (and it looks like the seal itself has been altered too, to some extent) it really limits the options. The paint on the text box could also be a problem.
I'm not sure what the original condition of the card is, but I got a pretty great deal on it compared to other english imperial seals, so even if it turns out MP I'd still be fairly pleased. I contacted the seller to find out if he knows anything about the prep/post work or the condition of the card. Needless to say if I try to remove it, I'll test-run my paint removal methods on something worthless first. And if it's easier, my goal might be to simply get it to a place where it could be re-altered to something better, rather than completely cleaning it off.
It's not the worst alter I've ever seen, but it's not really befitting the (2nd?) most expensive card in my collection.
EDH Primers
Phelddagrif - Zirilan
EDH
Thrasios+Bruse - Pang - Sasaya - Wydwen - Feather - Rona - Toshiro - Sylvia+Khorvath - Geth - QMarchesa - Firesong - Athreos - Arixmethes - Isperia - Etali - Silas+Sidar - Saskia - Virtus+Gorm - Kynaios - Naban - Aryel - Mizzix - Kazuul - Tymna+Kraum - Sidar+Tymna - Ayli - Gwendlyn - Phelddagrif 4 - Liliana - Kaervek - Phelddagrif 3 - Mairsil - Scarab - Child - Phenax - Shirei - Thada - Depala - Circu - Kytheon - GrenzoHR - Phelddagrif - Reyhan+Kraum - Toshiro - Varolz - Nin - Ojutai - Tasigur - Zedruu - Uril - Edric - Wort - Zurgo - Nahiri - Grenzo - Kozilek - Yisan - Ink-Treader - Yisan - Brago - Sidisi - Toshiro - Alexi - Sygg - Brimaz - Sek'Kuar - Marchesa - Vish Kal - Iroas - Phelddagrif - Ephara - Derevi - Glissa - Wanderer - Saffi - Melek - Xiahou Dun - Lazav - Lin Sivvi - Zirilan - Glissa
PDH - Drake - Graverobber - Izzet GM - Tallowisp - Symbiote Brawl - Feather - Ugin - Jace - Scarab - Angrath - Vraska - Kumena Oathbreaker - Wrenn&6
I loathe creatures! Praise Prison and Land Destruction!
My Peasant Cube (looking for feedback)
Thanks for the help. I was planning on doing some test runs with junk cards. Isn't it going to be difficult to stop the solvent from reacting once it's done though? I mean, after I rub the paint off there's still going to be some residue from the solvent left on the card, should I wipe it off afterwards to prevent the solvent from doing further damage to the card? Will that be enough?
From your first reply it sounds like isopropyl alcohol is the way to go? Obviously I'd prefer to err on the side of safety, so whatever the weakest, safest solvent is that has the least chance of damaging the card would be my preference.
EDH Primers
Phelddagrif - Zirilan
EDH
Thrasios+Bruse - Pang - Sasaya - Wydwen - Feather - Rona - Toshiro - Sylvia+Khorvath - Geth - QMarchesa - Firesong - Athreos - Arixmethes - Isperia - Etali - Silas+Sidar - Saskia - Virtus+Gorm - Kynaios - Naban - Aryel - Mizzix - Kazuul - Tymna+Kraum - Sidar+Tymna - Ayli - Gwendlyn - Phelddagrif 4 - Liliana - Kaervek - Phelddagrif 3 - Mairsil - Scarab - Child - Phenax - Shirei - Thada - Depala - Circu - Kytheon - GrenzoHR - Phelddagrif - Reyhan+Kraum - Toshiro - Varolz - Nin - Ojutai - Tasigur - Zedruu - Uril - Edric - Wort - Zurgo - Nahiri - Grenzo - Kozilek - Yisan - Ink-Treader - Yisan - Brago - Sidisi - Toshiro - Alexi - Sygg - Brimaz - Sek'Kuar - Marchesa - Vish Kal - Iroas - Phelddagrif - Ephara - Derevi - Glissa - Wanderer - Saffi - Melek - Xiahou Dun - Lazav - Lin Sivvi - Zirilan - Glissa
PDH - Drake - Graverobber - Izzet GM - Tallowisp - Symbiote Brawl - Feather - Ugin - Jace - Scarab - Angrath - Vraska - Kumena Oathbreaker - Wrenn&6
Regarding your first question, the solvent will evaporate no need to wipe it off. While isopropyl alcohol will take off acrylic paint, you need 99% pure isopropyl alcohol, even then there is likely to be some water in the solution so be carful when working at the cards edge other wise the cardboard may swell up. Mainly make sure your cotton swap/pad is damp to slightly wet, but not dripping wet with whatever solvent you use. There is also the fact that isopropyl alcohol being a weaker solvent compared to the other solvents may mean applying more pressure to the card or taking more time to take the paint off.
I loathe creatures! Praise Prison and Land Destruction!
My Peasant Cube (looking for feedback)
I'm going to try to swing by an art supply store sometime this week to pick up paint and hopefully paint thinner, so I'll ask them if they've got any recommendations too.
EDH Primers
Phelddagrif - Zirilan
EDH
Thrasios+Bruse - Pang - Sasaya - Wydwen - Feather - Rona - Toshiro - Sylvia+Khorvath - Geth - QMarchesa - Firesong - Athreos - Arixmethes - Isperia - Etali - Silas+Sidar - Saskia - Virtus+Gorm - Kynaios - Naban - Aryel - Mizzix - Kazuul - Tymna+Kraum - Sidar+Tymna - Ayli - Gwendlyn - Phelddagrif 4 - Liliana - Kaervek - Phelddagrif 3 - Mairsil - Scarab - Child - Phenax - Shirei - Thada - Depala - Circu - Kytheon - GrenzoHR - Phelddagrif - Reyhan+Kraum - Toshiro - Varolz - Nin - Ojutai - Tasigur - Zedruu - Uril - Edric - Wort - Zurgo - Nahiri - Grenzo - Kozilek - Yisan - Ink-Treader - Yisan - Brago - Sidisi - Toshiro - Alexi - Sygg - Brimaz - Sek'Kuar - Marchesa - Vish Kal - Iroas - Phelddagrif - Ephara - Derevi - Glissa - Wanderer - Saffi - Melek - Xiahou Dun - Lazav - Lin Sivvi - Zirilan - Glissa
PDH - Drake - Graverobber - Izzet GM - Tallowisp - Symbiote Brawl - Feather - Ugin - Jace - Scarab - Angrath - Vraska - Kumena Oathbreaker - Wrenn&6
Seriously, unless you want to waste money don't screw with this card.
EDIT:
With that in mind, that might actually be a stolen Seal so just be careful.
http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/magic-general/529317-aces-alters-brian-byrd
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
Unless we talking about solvents that are used for removing enamel based or epoxy based or similar based paints it won't eat a hole through his card. I have used both isopropyl alchol and denatured alcohol on cards I personally own. Acrylic paint once the water evaporates from the paint is no longer water soluble and while difficult to remove it can be removed. I know acetone is an effective solvent for acrylic paint, but it also lifts the ink off the card since I have used it to blank foils to make foil proxies. The problem will likely also be the same for other ketone based solvents. I have also played with toluene to blank foils, but it some times leaves the foil layer foggy. However, it again can take the ink off the card. I have used isopropyl alcohol and denatured alcohol to clean cards. Denatured alcohol can lift ink if you let it sit and agitate the ink before it evaporates however its much weaker than the others solvents and if carefully applied should be able to remove the paint and still leave the ink on the card untouched. My only experience with paint was a small paint splatter on a tarmogoyf that a friend of mine had. The denatured alcohol took the paint off his card, and the only noticeable effect was the card was not as shiny where the paint was. Isopropyl alcohol even weaker yet would probably work best on fresh paint, but it still can remove paint, and it also does not effect the ink on a card as much. It would even be slower and more time consuming.
Here are some cards that I personally owned that I cleaned the borders with denatured alcohol, and the face/art with isopropyl alcohol I don't see any holes my cards.
Now after
-edit-
I will say part of the reason why this is difficult is acrylic paint tends have a polymer base suspend in water or an emulsified solution. When the water evaporates what is left behind is the polymer base. Polymers also used in most modern day inks so most solvents that effect acrylic paint also effect ink.
I loathe creatures! Praise Prison and Land Destruction!
My Peasant Cube (looking for feedback)
It sounds like the Tarmogoyf paint you removed was as much physics as chemistry. Small spots of paint can be removed with water, so a little alcohol wouldn't hurt. But, a good application of paint like this one will be hard to do anything with especially since it's totally cured.
I have cleaned and stripped a bunch of cards in my time. I have painted a lot too. It's this experience that tells me you aren't going to get enough paint off to make it worth it.
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
Hmm, well that's unfortunate. What would be the best way to figure out for sure? Is there any tracking through scg for this sort of thing?
Assuming it's not stolen, I'm thinking maybe I should just send it to Klug alters and see what he can do with it. I know he's got plenty of experience with altering over other, bad alters and I'm sure he can think of something awesome. But I should probably see what it actually looks like first.
EDH Primers
Phelddagrif - Zirilan
EDH
Thrasios+Bruse - Pang - Sasaya - Wydwen - Feather - Rona - Toshiro - Sylvia+Khorvath - Geth - QMarchesa - Firesong - Athreos - Arixmethes - Isperia - Etali - Silas+Sidar - Saskia - Virtus+Gorm - Kynaios - Naban - Aryel - Mizzix - Kazuul - Tymna+Kraum - Sidar+Tymna - Ayli - Gwendlyn - Phelddagrif 4 - Liliana - Kaervek - Phelddagrif 3 - Mairsil - Scarab - Child - Phenax - Shirei - Thada - Depala - Circu - Kytheon - GrenzoHR - Phelddagrif - Reyhan+Kraum - Toshiro - Varolz - Nin - Ojutai - Tasigur - Zedruu - Uril - Edric - Wort - Zurgo - Nahiri - Grenzo - Kozilek - Yisan - Ink-Treader - Yisan - Brago - Sidisi - Toshiro - Alexi - Sygg - Brimaz - Sek'Kuar - Marchesa - Vish Kal - Iroas - Phelddagrif - Ephara - Derevi - Glissa - Wanderer - Saffi - Melek - Xiahou Dun - Lazav - Lin Sivvi - Zirilan - Glissa
PDH - Drake - Graverobber - Izzet GM - Tallowisp - Symbiote Brawl - Feather - Ugin - Jace - Scarab - Angrath - Vraska - Kumena Oathbreaker - Wrenn&6
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
What percentage was the isopropyl have you used? The polymer based acrylic paint is water resistant unless there is almost no in water in the alcohol solution, the alcohol will have a hard time soaking into the paint to dissolve it due to that water resistance. There also different types of alcohol based of ethyl or methyl groups ect.
I loathe creatures! Praise Prison and Land Destruction!
My Peasant Cube (looking for feedback)
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
I loathe creatures! Praise Prison and Land Destruction!
My Peasant Cube (looking for feedback)
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
I have had the card for 6 months it was an altered forest in a collection I bought.
I loathe creatures! Praise Prison and Land Destruction!
My Peasant Cube (looking for feedback)
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
No considering the card it was in a collection I bought I don't know anything about who did the alter and what paint was used. I will say there was like a clear acrylic applied on the card beneath all the pigmented paint that made life a little easier but still it was very thin so it was possible to some time wash the ink out. I almost didn't notice it.
I loathe creatures! Praise Prison and Land Destruction!
My Peasant Cube (looking for feedback)
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
As longer as paint stands sticked to a card, as harder becomes to remove it. Also, if the guy used oil médium to créate color transitions (highly probable), it's pretty imposible to remove the pigments from the original painting layer of the card. Just try to find the "boyfriend" for that alter and move it on to buy other stuff. I wouldn't even try to un-alter that money piece.