I go for carbon steel swords, windlass saber, 2 hanwei's and a bunch of others.I prefer swords for historical reasons, a remake is more accurate than a folder, for cutting and forms, and because for protection, most situations are resolved before you need to draw
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I have a Vietnam Fighter blade. I know pretty much nothing about brands, but it's pretty crappy. I'm looking for a replacement. How are ka-bar knives? I've heard some good things and they seem to be reasonably priced.
I have a Vietnam Fighter blade. I know pretty much nothing about brands, but it's pretty crappy. I'm looking for a replacement. How are ka-bar knives? I've heard some good things and they seem to be reasonably priced.
K-bar is not to bad, but certain versions suck. Try to get ones with a micarta handle as it will not bight your hand (blister) and not slip when wet. My K-Bar is a large TDI cause I can wear it in the vehicle and bend over without poking me in the side. It also stays out of the way on the vest.
For larger knives, I prefer T.O.P.S knives. They are just the best I have ever used. The blade quality and thickness are just super for combat use. Price is really not that bad for what you get either.
Swords are about how you display them. Show them off and you may appear odd, but hang them over the TV or fireplace and you are old school. People's perceptions are so easy to cirmcumvent. Be proud owning a quality sword.
Swords are about how you display them. Show them off and you may appear odd, but hang them over the TV or fireplace and you are old school. People's perceptions are so easy to cirmcumvent. Be proud owning a quality sword.
I had too many to hang up and they were laying around. That looke both bad and a tad creepy. I since got rid of 90% of them. I have the bayonet and wakizashi displayed because they have personal history.
I had too many to hang up and they were laying around. That looke both bad and a tad creepy. I since got rid of 90% of them. I have the bayonet and wakizashi displayed because they have personal history.
I find girls that love/own blades hot and guys that do the same wise/cool (don't what gender you are and not prying). It's about the crowd you hang with. Are they comfortable around blades? You should never bend to the crowd, but having kids is an issue as I cut the **** out myself when I found my dads WW1 german bayonet when younger. Kids need to learn anyway.
What would you suggest for cleaning rust from a blade? I have a viking short sword and after leaving it in the sheath for an extended period of time, (I realize now that it is a mistake to do that w/ leather sheaths) it gathered some rust along the edge of the blade as well as the pommel/hilt. My friend offered to clean it using a dremmel, but I've heard elsewhere that it can damage the blade, so I thought I'd see if anyone has experience/advice to share.
What would you suggest for cleaning rust from a blade? I have a viking short sword and after leaving it in the sheath for an extended period of time, (I realize now that it is a mistake to do that w/ leather sheaths) it gathered some rust along the edge of the blade as well as the pommel/hilt. My friend offered to clean it using a dremmel, but I've heard elsewhere that it can damage the blade, so I thought I'd see if anyone has experience/advice to share.
Depends. Is it a cheap fair sword or a real forged weapon? Is use a buffing wheel and white or pink buffing compound for rust. There is a rust eraser you can get from Moore Maker Knives, but that is only useful for small spots or areas not accessible by the wheel. You will find that most rust will have pits in the metal, thus it will ruin knives as you can't get the rust out sometimes. Basically, the pitted areas must be oiled from now on and never dry.
My dad and I make custom knives for fun and e tell folks to never leave blood, sugar (fruit cutting), or bleach on the blade. Leather or certain metals touching your blade will create rust faster. The humidity in the scabbard assist rust development. Prevention is the best answer.
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K-bar is not to bad, but certain versions suck. Try to get ones with a micarta handle as it will not bight your hand (blister) and not slip when wet. My K-Bar is a large TDI cause I can wear it in the vehicle and bend over without poking me in the side. It also stays out of the way on the vest.
For larger knives, I prefer T.O.P.S knives. They are just the best I have ever used. The blade quality and thickness are just super for combat use. Price is really not that bad for what you get either.
Multiplayer Decks- Memnarch - Animar, Soul of Elements - Zur, the Enchanter - Atraxa, Praetors' Voice - Food Chain Tazri - Teysa Karlov
Modern BUMill and Bant Spirits.
Thank you Xenphire for the signature!
My notables are a bayonet my mother's father owned, and a wakizashi owned by my dad's father, who both served in WW2.
Multiplayer Decks- Memnarch - Animar, Soul of Elements - Zur, the Enchanter - Atraxa, Praetors' Voice - Food Chain Tazri - Teysa Karlov
Modern BUMill and Bant Spirits.
Thank you Xenphire for the signature!
I had too many to hang up and they were laying around. That looke both bad and a tad creepy. I since got rid of 90% of them. I have the bayonet and wakizashi displayed because they have personal history.
I find girls that love/own blades hot and guys that do the same wise/cool (don't what gender you are and not prying). It's about the crowd you hang with. Are they comfortable around blades? You should never bend to the crowd, but having kids is an issue as I cut the **** out myself when I found my dads WW1 german bayonet when younger. Kids need to learn anyway.
Multiplayer Decks- Memnarch - Animar, Soul of Elements - Zur, the Enchanter - Atraxa, Praetors' Voice - Food Chain Tazri - Teysa Karlov
Modern BUMill and Bant Spirits.
Thank you Xenphire for the signature!
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Depends. Is it a cheap fair sword or a real forged weapon? Is use a buffing wheel and white or pink buffing compound for rust. There is a rust eraser you can get from Moore Maker Knives, but that is only useful for small spots or areas not accessible by the wheel. You will find that most rust will have pits in the metal, thus it will ruin knives as you can't get the rust out sometimes. Basically, the pitted areas must be oiled from now on and never dry.
My dad and I make custom knives for fun and e tell folks to never leave blood, sugar (fruit cutting), or bleach on the blade. Leather or certain metals touching your blade will create rust faster. The humidity in the scabbard assist rust development. Prevention is the best answer.
Multiplayer Decks- Memnarch - Animar, Soul of Elements - Zur, the Enchanter - Atraxa, Praetors' Voice - Food Chain Tazri - Teysa Karlov
Modern BUMill and Bant Spirits.
Thank you Xenphire for the signature!