Generally 1.5x. It's a good compromise between your extra work and the fact they're only getting 1 card.
i agree as well, its only one card even if there are 2 sides, and sometimes they want to keep the art on one side of the card (my friend wants me to only alter the green side of df garruk)
In this case it's full art Garruk on both sides. It will take twice as long as normal and I charge hourly, so I just figured double it. What's the rationale for lowering your hourly rate just because it's on one card?
There isn't a reason argument for that. It is just a financial strategy to don't scare potential clients from buying your stuff. Of course I would choose to charge double rather than just less in an enviroment were ppl doesn't cares about spending money in whims. Unfortunately, we're dealing with magic players.
If you want to see it from a more comfortable perspective, at least you'll spend just a little to no design time at all, since you'll be just extending the original artwork. So, at least, that will mean an easier labor for you, wich could justify a "courtesy" in the form of a discount.
Hey guys,
This is my first time posting in these parts of the forum. It's also my first time attempting a card art extensions. Anyone care to give feedback?
Love this thread and thought I'd share how I browse it. I created a quick little filter that allows you to just browse the images on each page. Give it a try. You can also use the left and right arrow keys to navigate.
Love this thread and thought I'd share how I browse it. I created a quick little filter that allows you to just browse the images on each page. Give it a try. You can also use the left and right arrow keys to navigate.
That's a very very cool tool you gave to us. Thanks a loth, dude.
I think it would be cooler if a mod adds this to the main thread (page #1), so people who is just interesed in looking at the sole images, will be able to do so. (I'll send a message to Mobo.)
Has anyone used both Golden Fluid AND GW Citadel paints? If so, which did you prefer and why?
Golden Fluid by far. I have Golden Fluid, Golden acrylics (in a tube and needs to be watered down) and Citadel but mainly use the first two due to pigment concentration and simplicity to work with.
So watercolors... Do they work? They have the look I want to go for but will they actually look okay on the card? I don't have a problem with acrylics and have a nice selection at the local Michaels, but I'd really like to use water colors or something that looks like them.
Private Mod Note
():
Rollback Post to RevisionRollBack
Casual Cube EDH: UR Niv-Mizzet's Madness BGW Ghave's Garden WUBRG Karona's Chaos
Retired: Too damn many to count Vintage: URWelder WUBRG Dredge Kitchen Table: B Zombies in Your Head
So watercolors... Do they work? They have the look I want to go for but will they actually look okay on the card? I don't have a problem with acrylics and have a nice selection at the local Michaels, but I'd really like to use water colors or something that looks like them.
Watering down properly the acrylics, you can get a watercoloresque looking, while also having the option of making them look like what they actually are (yeah, like acrylics themselves.) For watercolor, you would need to make a primer coat with acrylics anyway, and you haven't the chance of making them look like acrylics (more concentrated and vibrant.)
Just my 2 cents.
If I do a white base coat would I not need to blank the card?
Private Mod Note
():
Rollback Post to RevisionRollBack
Casual Cube EDH: UR Niv-Mizzet's Madness BGW Ghave's Garden WUBRG Karona's Chaos
Retired: Too damn many to count Vintage: URWelder WUBRG Dredge Kitchen Table: B Zombies in Your Head
If I do a white base coat would I not need to blank the card?
Exactly, except that if you work with acrylics, having it a little grey would be better. For watercolor, I think it is better to just make it white. Now I think about it, markers (like prismacolor) aren't better than watercolor and also with a similar ending if you just play with your fingers to get more/less transparency? (also easier and more precise to work with, I think) Just a thought.
Hurting the card isn't necessary if you know how to make your coats as thin as possible. Better try and practice on bulk commons before doing it on good cards. Making thin layers becomes as product of practice and patience.
EDIT: Anyway, my personal advice would be that, if you practice with acrylics, you can get almost any texture you want. Personally, I think it is the best material for alterations (and even traditional painting) by far.
The main problem with watercolors is that the binder (the non-pigment part of the paint) is gum arabic. Gum arabic can be pretty brittle unless it soaks into the surface of the paper. If you let it do that to a clay coat like these are printed on it will warp the hell out of the card. If you are water coloring on an acrylic primer coat, it's not going to be durable at all.
Some people on this thread have stated that they use citadel paints because they cover well and stay flat. That's why I asked
I find that they cover well (because they are loaded with chalk, which is very opaque), but they do not lay flat at all compared to multiple layers of translucent acrylics. The quality of acrylic does factor into it though.
If you are water coloring on an acrylic primer coat, it's not going to be durable at all.
I think a sealer (a bright/semi-bright one would probably be better to help to highlight the colors) would may be helping here. I use a fixative varnish in spray from the brand Acrilex, wich happens to have UV and Funguicide protection (isn't that the fungui and UV is necessary here, but... lol) I've tried watercolor once (on paper) and didn't even noticed the brittle effect on it (may be because I've used very thin layers and it fixes very well in paper. You're probably right about painting over any plasticlike surface, I think.
I altered a card and thought I did a fairly good job of matching the colors. Then I sprayed it with Krylon Matte Finish and now the paint colors are slightly different than the card colors. Is there a good protectant that will not alter the artwork?
That's a very beautiful Arbor, Poxy. For this piece, I would have definitely removed the cardtype box (I know it is the FTV one, wich happens to have a new design, but I would have just let the custom art to be the central element of the composition. The box just distract the attention from it.
Here's the sketch for my next alteration: Foil & Custom Art Angel TOken for Geist of Saint Traft
That's a very beautiful Arbor, Poxy. For this piece, I would have definitely removed the cardtype box (I know it is the FTV one, wich happens to have a new design, but I would have just let the custom art to be the central element of the composition. The box just distract the attention from it.
Here's the sketch for my next alteration: Foil & Custom Art Angel TOken for Geist of Saint Traft
I commissioned that Dryad Arbor, and I asked him specifically to leave the boxes in because they convey all the relevant game text of the card, which I thought was kind of neat. The idea was that both the art box and the text box could be altered without actually obscuring any of the rules text of the card.
I commissioned that Dryad Arbor, and I asked him specifically to leave the boxes in because they convey all the relevant game text of the card, which I thought was kind of neat. The idea was that both the art box and the text box could be altered without actually obscuring any of the rules text of the card.
I suspected it would have been the case. I think almost stuff poxy does is comissions, and that probably the comissioner would have asked for it to be that way. Anyway, since textless cards exist, it would haven't been a problem to have made it without that text bar. Everybody knows the Arbor (specially now that it was released in a new product), and also you still having the land namebox and the p/t to confirm that it is effectively a creature land.
i agree as well, its only one card even if there are 2 sides, and sometimes they want to keep the art on one side of the card (my friend wants me to only alter the green side of df garruk)
EDH
GWSigarda, Host of EnchantressGW[Primer]
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
If you want to see it from a more comfortable perspective, at least you'll spend just a little to no design time at all, since you'll be just extending the original artwork. So, at least, that will mean an easier labor for you, wich could justify a "courtesy" in the form of a discount.
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
This is my first time posting in these parts of the forum. It's also my first time attempting a card art extensions. Anyone care to give feedback?
Cheers
first ever card alter.. not too bad i think?
latest attempt;
Modern:
:symu::symw::symr: UWr Geist :symr::symw::symu:
EDH:
:symb::symb::symr::symr: Rakdos, Lord of Riots :symr::symr::symb::symb:
Here's a link to my altered art blog:
Link removed.
Thanks for looking folks.
Per Art Forum rules, advertising your site is not allowed outside of your sig. Suspension issued. - B
http://redsunsoft.com/magic/extract.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.mtgsalvation.com%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D93474%26page%3D2067
That's a very very cool tool you gave to us. Thanks a loth, dude.
I think it would be cooler if a mod adds this to the main thread (page #1), so people who is just interesed in looking at the sole images, will be able to do so. (I'll send a message to Mobo.)
Again, thanks.
Golden Fluid by far. I have Golden Fluid, Golden acrylics (in a tube and needs to be watered down) and Citadel but mainly use the first two due to pigment concentration and simplicity to work with.
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
EDH:
UR Niv-Mizzet's Madness
BGW Ghave's Garden
WUBRG Karona's Chaos
Retired: Too damn many to count
Vintage:
URWelder
WUBRG Dredge
Kitchen Table:
B Zombies in Your Head
Watering down properly the acrylics, you can get a watercoloresque looking, while also having the option of making them look like what they actually are (yeah, like acrylics themselves.) For watercolor, you would need to make a primer coat with acrylics anyway, and you haven't the chance of making them look like acrylics (more concentrated and vibrant.)
Just my 2 cents.
EDH:
UR Niv-Mizzet's Madness
BGW Ghave's Garden
WUBRG Karona's Chaos
Retired: Too damn many to count
Vintage:
URWelder
WUBRG Dredge
Kitchen Table:
B Zombies in Your Head
Hurting the card isn't necessary if you know how to make your coats as thin as possible. Better try and practice on bulk commons before doing it on good cards. Making thin layers becomes as product of practice and patience.
EDIT: Anyway, my personal advice would be that, if you practice with acrylics, you can get almost any texture you want. Personally, I think it is the best material for alterations (and even traditional painting) by far.
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
I find that they cover well (because they are loaded with chalk, which is very opaque), but they do not lay flat at all compared to multiple layers of translucent acrylics. The quality of acrylic does factor into it though.
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
reference: http://www.seacliffgardens.com/olympic-peninsula_five-days_day2.php
ALTERED CARDS
http://s671.beta.photobucket.com/user/poxy14/library/
commission status: FULL
Here's the sketch for my next alteration: Foil & Custom Art Angel TOken for Geist of Saint Traft
Stromkirk Noble-Dracula:
Reference from http://horrornovice.blogspot.gr/2012/02/bram-stokers-dracula.html
Sengir Nosferatu:
Reference:http://opheliasfiction.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/nosferatu.jpeg
Firewing Phoenix-Dark Phoenix:
Reference from this awesome cover: http://www.google.gr/imgres?imgurl=http://i.annihil.us/u/prod/marvel//universe3zx/images/thumb/6/6a/JeanGrey442.jpg/406px-JeanGrey442.jpg&imgrefurl=http://marvel.com/universe/Phoenix_(Jean_Grey)&h=551&w=406&sz=149&tbnid=sDvIPEMwoQqbPM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=66&zoom=1&usg=__OVIbHAMh_WrAWQgLqVKKjOLSX54=&docid=EQK4sKeIobuugM&sa=X&ei=l7JqULqcHIWp0QWcwIHQDA&ved=0CDEQ9QEwAw&dur=194
Diregraf Captain-LeChuck:
Referenced from Lechuck from the Monkey Island games:http://www.flickr.com/photos/carnager/4055957891/
Scryb Rangers:
Island:
Mountain:
CARDS FOR SALE HERE!.
My alterted cards Gallery.
My Alters Blog.
I commissioned that Dryad Arbor, and I asked him specifically to leave the boxes in because they convey all the relevant game text of the card, which I thought was kind of neat. The idea was that both the art box and the text box could be altered without actually obscuring any of the rules text of the card.